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The MSD v2 laptop style is a better option. Takes a special caddy with ice laptop size drive. I think the sport uses the same drive just a different carrier/caddy. Unless you are running diag on something electronic like a1 Lmtv there isn't too much you can do with the computer vs a multimeter...

Headlights have to be on. Sometimes the relay is missing in the panel. It uses a 12v rotating light.

It did take a few times cranking it. I dont like to run the starter for long periods. Crank for 5 seconds then wait a few. Once it would catch, give it throttle till it smoothed out. Lots of smoke till it got going good. I have the ether can on there but never tried it.

Last winter I was able to start all my trucks at 10 degrees out without any starting aids. They grumbled and smoked a bit. Running them every day also helps.

I have new front shackles. Most of the 3126 a1 trucks have bad solder joints in the pcb power panel causing intermittent electrical issues.

Get barb ends and use regular fuel line with hose clamps you cut to length yourself.

You can prob get rid of the air hyd pump and put an electric one in its place. An air actuated switch off the air feed to the pump can be used to activate a relay that kicks on the pump.

I tried the LED bulbs in the incandescent housings on my m939 trucks and the LEDs never lasted. Maybe they are better at 12 volt although they were marketed as 12-24. Does look nice and bright though.

I did a few. I have some new ones that came with other odd surplus a while back.

But you are back in the risk game buying another truck. Which may actually be the easiest way to go. Straight engine swap in a lmtv isnt too bad if you do go that route.

The cat motors are worth what they are worth. Theres no super unbelievable deals on them unfortunately.

I have a 1078 engine it has one bad injector sleeve but runs. Nothing cat is cheap and its not a sleeved engine I dont know if you can just take your pistons out and drop them into another block.

Some plugs can be easily opened and others cannot. Get a tone tracer. Connect to the pin you think is bad and tone trace all the wires in the bundle. That pin may be connected somewhere else. In my experience, wiring damage is usually visible physical damage. If you inspected and everything...

Its usually the same controller.

Could be a bad ecu or wire harness. The ecu is a high failure item.

You cant get all the fluid out and to mix mineral spirits into the whole system is probably not the best idea.

On the driver side of the engine is the air compressor. Governor is mounted on top of the compressor. Plastic cap comes off and there is a threaded rod with a flat head slot and locking nut. I forget which way increases or decreases pressure. A very slight adjustment is all you need. 1/4 turn...

5 solid lights is a hard fault. It can be caused by the switch. Did you turn the air governor up slightly yet?

I would use a relay and breaker and run power right from the battery box to your application. Especially if it's in the bed area. You can run a control wire into the cab if you want control from the cab.

Sometimes the air pressure governor is set just a bit too low to trigger the switch. You can try turning it up just a tad. Governor is mounted on the air compressor. Could be a clogged air dryer also causing slightly low pressure.