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You said it all. After market. You have fun with that. The radius at the rear will not line up with the gate and the edges are like razor blades. Speaking from experience I would like to know what shipping is. That aftermarket sheet metal fits poorly and has not held up well. The import inner...

I was at Aberdeen swap meet one year and after a few hours it was a sea of mud in the vendor field. I drove in before the rain started driving an M1028 with another M1028 in tow on the bar. I had the drive shaft removed when I arrived and when I got there it was not raining so I quick hooked up...

No need for a 1 ton truck. I towed many with 1/2 ton Chevy 4 x 4 pickups. Just done the dually for 150 miles. Monkeyboy is right. Driveshaft off and tied up hubs in neutral and no need to do anything with transfer case. Safety chain and tail lamps are all that is needed. I found the newer the...

Cut a bed side out and weld a section in. I think the same guy fixed my work horse M1028. I had a brake line blow out under the mid ship area last week when I was pulling tree stumps with it. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking. This rear bed side has aluminum siding in as filler also. I never...

What about the steering box? Are the outer axle U joints both free and not binding? I mean what made you replace the pump and brake booster?

The resistors also assist over voltage during jump start. I am NOT 100% knowledgeable but I have just followed the original blue prints since 1984 and have had rave results. Eliminates the guess work and speculation. All is Well. Take Care.

Why not just replace the resistors. Just saying they were put there for a reason. Keep it stock and keep it simple. It worked for 36+ years like it is. Soon an unmolested, unhacked CUCV will be a rarity. Do as you wish. The resistors do work a long time and when they fail replace them. Just like...

Stille Ich arbeite daran

Remove and check the glow plugs. The system is protecting itself by cycling on and right off. You have the list in order. Check the glow plugs before anything get bypassed.

OK. I use a 3/8" deep socket on a short 3/8" drive ratchet. All you can do is try and remove them. I have removed hundreds if not thousands of them. I NEVER broke one off and had it fall into the engine. If you encounter resistance and they are swelled to the point that you can not remove them...

I cannot wait to see your M1009 in Europe. This has been a great experience for me beyond the monetary value. It is just cool stuff.

I always remove the glow plugs and bench test them. 1 reason is I seen them glow up further on the shaft instead of the tip. And also I get a chance to get a visual of them and evaluate the condition of the glow plug entirely. Do as you wish. 10 minutes they are out and 10 minutes later you can...

Do we have any updates on the M1009? I mean the suspense is mind blowing. Bon Voyage has to come to a happy end soon.

Be creative and make your own inexpensive grille radiator cover. I ran this one for a few years and removed it in the spring. Worked great and looked great also. Attached with 5/16" J bolts and never drilled a hole or made a mark on the brush guard. Just an idea. Cool things that don't need to...

Heat that nut up good. And use a vise grips. PB Blast and heat will do nothing. Heat burns the PB blast and makes hot fluid drip on you. Use heat and be done with it. Vise grips get stripped bolts out also. If you stripped the T 50 Torx bolt you didn't have it hot enough, seated correctly or you...

Piece of CAKE. Propane torch on the bottom side of the inner fender lip and they will come right out. You will drill your arse off on them hardened bolts. T50 and heat will get them every time. They are metric thread if I remember correctly. Good Luck. Get the torch out.

They are not a bank breaking item. But if they are wrong return them. Are you trying to change all the bushings? That would be why I would just buy the kit I mentioned. The shackles may not come with the kit but I think I have steered you in the right direction.

You will need the bushing measurements. I went thru this before. I think 1 3/8" is the correct bushing for the shackles. Check the measurements. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.2117_3950?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-z25KTz6wIVjZ-zCh2sMwweEAQYASABEgL3_PD_BwE Good Luck I hope that helps.

Good pointy. Yes they are just a nut and bolt up front. Nothing special.