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Wtec 2 is in earlier trucks 2 digit display on keypad wtec 3 is single digit keypad. The breaker panels on the trucks are marked and the inside of the cover has a breaker/relay diagram. Which truck do you have. Post a pic of your panel and im sure we can clear up any confusion.

I think it's a 12 volt circuit that switches 24 at the relay. You can swap it for a less used switch like the rotary warning one. The little green legend will pop out and go into the replacement switch. Check the lower left lever on the light switch make sure it's all the way up.

I have found most of the 6CTA's need 2 turns on their fuel screw to really open up. Once the turbo is fully spooled full power is available.

If you have power at the batteries and the terminals are all good, cables are on properly and all is right in the battery box go to the breaker panel see if you have 12 & 24 volts at the posts left side of the panel. If no go to the power protective box under the spare tire and measure voltage...

There is a button left side of the panel start inhibit. Dont press it. If you do decide to press it for some unknown reason, shut the main power switch off then back on again to reset.

Bad regulator maybe.

I have seen the newer style fan clutch do the same thing though. It is strange im sure civilian trucks use the same basic setup. If you cant fix the radiator and charge cooler I do have a pair sitting here.

A pair of 12 volt batteries in series gives you 24 volt. 12 volt is tapped between the two. 2 Pairs are in parallel for more cranking current. A 12 volt jump pack across a 12 volt battery works well. As long as its in proper polarity. You want to have a jump pack on each battery on one pair so...

MD3070PT is a 3000 series trans. Search allison 3000 series pto a few different things come up. I would check with allison have your trans serial number on hand to verify compatibility though.

Theres no reset on the polarity protective box im pretty sure its just a diode array. You can use a pair of 12 volt jump packs to start a lmtv. One across a back battery and one across a front battery. Proper polarity connected of course.

Most states vin check an out of state title. Probably because a few states dont. CT does it too. You are supposed to temp and vin verify I just borrow a dealer plate to do the vin verify and then walk in and reg.

Level sensor for the cab air springs. Powerpacker part. They sell to the public and its not an expensive part.

The driveline on trucks need to be checked for play per the hinging test in the tm also. You will throw a driveshaft and cause alot of damage or worse have the driveshaft launch and hit another vehicle. I got 2 A1 tractors recently out of TX both needed U joints (too much play) and one a front...

I have a feeling the fan clutch should be replaced with age/mileage. This has happened more times than its posted about.

Yup

Commom fan blade I have seen them cheap on auction sites. I will look for the clutch part number.

I have a radiator. Fan clutch can be ordered new. There is a tacom message to check bolts on the newer trucks and use loc tite when installing but all the ones I have see appear to have just come apart from wear/age. There is a thread on it. I posted some pics there.

Lucky you. At speed the clutch will come apart and throw the fan or half the clutch thru the radiator.

Probably had a gun ring setup on the truck and it was removed prior to drmo. Wasnt in their interest to source a cover and install it after.

Vermont will issue you a registration they usually dont title after a certain age. The reg can be used for transfer. Under 25 years old they wont do antique reg you have to to trucks by the weight it can get expensive. They wont do it thru the mail with the sf97. Throw that away and make a bill...