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I would contact the seller, or manufacturer. If it has a sticker on the back that is multivoltage they should last a very long time.

I would remove them and verify they dont work. LED's should out last us. I would use a battery charger and hook them to it to verify. Make sure polarity is correct, LED's wont work with polarity reversed. Another thing, verify the LED's are multi volt, or 24v. 12v LED's will work for a little...

Check the ground strap that should be between the 2 mounting bolts on the light bucket, and check that the ground wire 95B are making good contact.

Check the trailer plug to see if you have power there. B pin- LS service drive turn and stop E pin- Service drive tail J pin- RS service drive turn and stop

I didnt know there was a chat room

I found a PS mag article on the fuel mix. With the stated mix, 1 pint: 5 gallons, is a little over 50:1 so premixed Stihl fuel will work perfect for a test run. http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Don't+mix+up+fuel%2foil+mix.-a0108838088

Yours appears to have a power port, NATO adapter required on the bottom next to the water inlet, I am assuming for an electric starter. I would love to have the correct fuel cans, but I refuse to pay $80 for scepter cans when I have marine fuel tanks, or gas cans that do the job. I am waiting on...

Thats just what the inventory list inside the lid of the goody box said. Mine did have a float ball, its blue. Yours has a slave port, mine doesnt. *edit* BL can was not included in the goody box when I received it from GL

yes, still all banded and bagged, full tool set, shower setup, 2 wands, only think i could see that was missing was the TM (of course) and the float size adjuster bulb.

I will go look at mine, I didnt see any tags of any kind, other than the red preservation tag. nope, no tags, looks unmolested, brand new, never used by unit.

All I really care about is, what ratio of fuel/oil do I need to burn with a Cuyuna motor, and what octane. the burner is easy,red diesel.

welcome to the Green Iron family from the panhandle. As a courtesy to your significant other, warn her that there will be more to come, its like chips, no one can have just one.

I know this thread is old, but I too need assistance finding the correct manual. TM 3-4230-228-23&P for a M17A3 Lightweight Decon unit, nsn 4230-01-346-3122

BDAR for a failed PCB is hot wire from battery to the IP, and jump the starter via STE-ICE connector. To bypass, IMO, wouldnt be too much work, but you would destroy the factory wiring harness to do it.

bring it to OKlahoma, and a credit card and we can fix it.

I had issues today of not being able to bid from my phone, kept saying unable to verify address. I have bid from my phone in the past using the same card everytime.

Center link should be solid metal with holes in it, never changed one of those unless it was damaged. Not saying that it wouldnt need to be inspected for hole wear if steering arm nut or drag link nut happen to come loose.

Is the vibration in the steering wheel or in your feet? In the steering wheel, check steering u-joints, donkren's idler arm and drag link, tie rod ends, steering gear box for any play. In your feet, check ball joints, brake pads and rotors, drive shaft and carrier bearing. Also check the half...

Got the retrofit done today, had overcast weather until the last 2 tires. Only lost 4 mph going from 14.00/20's to 11R24.5's. The truck has a new name now though, Rock Chucker. If you wish to delete the wheel end CTIS items, either permanent or temporary, the plug that I used is Gates...

from page 56 Sorry for taking a year to reply, yes I am doing the rears, a year later. Thats one nice thing about it being a toy, it doesnt matter if it gets done or not. Caps with no casings cost me about $250, cheapest virgin tires i could find with big lugs was about $100 more. If you are...