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Please share lots of pictures. My transmission has a bit of a roar at high speed and some day I assume I'll be tearing it down. Hopefully before total failure.
I'm actively looking into that route. Unfortunately peashooter doesn't offer his kits currently, but I've contacted him to see what knowledge he can share as far as the soft lines, in addition to the excellent info he has already shared about the hard lines.
Only very expensive carbon/carbon brakes maintain effective stopping when heated until glowing.
My point is, even in a 1-off emergency, you would smoke a typical brake rotor/caliper setup using it to try to haul a deuce to a stop via the pinion flange.
That reminds me, I need to figure out what's wrong with my turn signals on my m35. I suspect its just a bad blink box, but I need to do more trouble shooting first.
When you select a blinker, the green light comes on solid on the switch, and none of the lights activate outside the truck.
The pinion spins much faster than the wheels. Pinion brakes are not advisable for trucks that are driven at speed.
Fully loaded, a deuce would smoke a pinion brake very quickly.
Maybe if you had a rotor on the input and output flange of each axle, you might start to have enough power...
"Typical" air brakes, as found on semis and even 5 ton MV, have a much better failsafe than ours. In that they fail on. Granted, your brakes trying to go full-lockup may not be ideal either, but its better than trying to use the engine or traffic to stop your rig.
If I were bobbing my truck...
My truck with no winch and the tailgate removed crossed the scales right around 12600lbs. So that leaves 10430lbs for payload.
You could remove the bed and put on an aluminum flatbed, that might save you another 600lbs or so.
Not sure you'll be able to remove 2000lbs worth of total weight...
Removing the short driveshaft from between the axles should work fine, but removing the axle shafts from the axle of your choice would probably be better. You would see less drag, and they are probably more accessible.
I believe other folks have used the bearing caps from the front axle to...
Yeah, I'm familiar with the dual brake master that came on some of the later trucks. I'd still like to see what can be done to move away from air-assist.
I wonder what the hydroboost master would do with the stock deuce drum brakes. I imagine it would have more boost than you would want due to it being used with disc brakes.
Still curious what could be done with the stock brakes and a more modern split master with something-other-than-pneumatic...
Congratulations! I have nothing to add other than:
Having grown up in New England and gone to UMaine in Orono, it was fun just seeing all the pins dropping on the map from all the members offering their help.
Making it up as you go along is most of the fun anyway. I threw together a little project at work this week that had me thinking of your build.
And I wish I could say I never thought about just giving up and taking a nap under a vehicle after long hours of wrenching!
I'm sorry, I was talking out the side of my neck this morning before I had my coffee.
You are quite right. Only when engine braking I guess, which isn't good for a 2 stroke anyway.
Jumping in late here:
Unless you are speaking strictly of 2stroke diesels, saying that 2 stroke rods don't experience tensile stress is ridiculous. They literally suck the intake charge past the reeds, which would have greater pumping loss than a 4 stroke's valve.
And they still have to...