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:ditto:

Yeah, looks like I screwed myself by getting the winch by itself. Thanks for the enlightenment.

I've searched around for winch mounting brackets and bumper extension brackets, but have nearly come up dry. I've posted in the classifieds and have looked at numerous MV suppliers, as well as ebay. The only place that carry the 4 brackets would be tnjmurray, but will run me $300 + shipping for...

I don't think it's too much oil. I just redid all my seals on the front axle and filled it with 1.5 gallons of 80w90 and it doesn't leak. Probably a bad seal.

Just picked up a winch locally for my m35, paid $200 for it. It leaks oil when filled, but it runs good when connected to a pto and has great looking gears on the inside. I'm wondering if I got a good deal or not.

Yep, my ground was bad. All is good now.

What do you mean by that? Also, Terminal #3 on the pyrometer shows a small logo of a light on and off. I don't know what that means, perhaps something to do with powering the display?

33 and 27. Both of them were plugged into the stock temp gauge. 27 was used as the 24v power lead and 33 as the ground. Edit: the voltage was checked many times before and after the wires were soldered on. It reads 24v.

Tried wiring for the first time. Stripped part of the temp gauge wires and soldered onto them with correct polarity. I connected up the gauge and flipped the accessory switch, but it did not turn on/illuminate. What am I doing wrong?

After installing the hub, wheel and inner spindle nut, I hear a grinding noise when the wheel is spun. After putting my ear next to the hub it sounds like it's coming from the wheel cylinder area. I'm suspecting that maybe the cylinder sheet metal cover is rubbing against the hub. Possible? What...

I just installed the external fuel pump after some help from "kennys@wi.rr.com" with diagnosing my dead in tank pump (thanks again, Kenny). I'm wondering how well this pump works vs the stock pump and does it do an adequate job of pulling the fuel from the bottom of the tank?

I finished the right side, front axle. The stuck bearing was removed with a slide hammer and had no damage from my previous hammering escapade. I then followed the advice of gently sliding the inner bearing on, worked like a charm. Then of course came the hub and outer bearing. I torqued the...

Understood. Why's there so much doubt, even on the grease? I'm plenty aware of the risks that I'm taking and have been following "Banshee365's stepxstep guide". Granted it does not give torque specs, but you speak to me as if I'm entirely incapable or rather too simple minded to preform this...

Preload?:confused: No, not following the TM's.

You sure? I tried the other bearing and it would hang up right after the threads.

I was under the impression that the inner wheel bearing would just slide on, but for some reason it hung up. I tried hitting around the bearing with a hammer, but now it's just stuck even more. It will not budge in either direction. Should the bearing require force for installation or is it...

He||, as long as it looks good/right in my first picture, then I'm fine with that.

This would be my first attempt at packing bearings, so I purchased a "Lisle bearing packer" to help me do the job. At this point I'm not at all certain if I'm doing it properly or if the device is even working right.

I ran into 2 more problems on my road to re-assembly. #1-What's the best way to stretch the brake return spring to attach it to the other pad? #2-The brass "C" clamps that go on the bottom of each pad just fall off. I tried bending each one in slightly with a hammer, but it left me with the same...

Not sure if this will cause any problems, but after 2 hours installing the boot on the knuckle I didn't realize part of the lip on the boot was sticking out until afterwards and I didn't want to redo the whole thing unless absolutely necessary. Will this perhaps cause any leaks or a potential to...