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RE: no click or non functioning switch - something else to check: The hi/lo and ignition switches can be adjusted slightly, maybe the screws came loose and its pushed to far down the column to "click". Loosen the screws ( 8mm hex head ) and adjust. If not, other posters covered the basics.

So how did this story end?

You did this without a Vermont address? I have a '97 suburban with a Florida Certificate of Destruction, but the truck is barely damaged. If I could get a Vermont title and tags, the truck could live again!

How about some pics of that new club car, yours is the gas one right? We need some video of you zooming around your cranes in it!

Thanks guys. Will do, I need to remove the pesky heater to get to the IP. Going to change fuel filters and check pressure as well.

BFR - I know this is an OLD thread, but what fixed your problem. I have a M35A2 with similar issues. High rpm, push in clutch, and rpms drop low (200-300) and sometimes it stalls. If it doesnt stall, the RPM will go back to idle (800rpm or so on this truck). The truck will idle and drive under...

I hate to revive old threads, but where can the "cross reference" be found these days? If anyone has a copy, I'd be grateful for it. I have only seen the filter and gasket cross reference material.

I have not in the past and wouldn't in the future.

Per the TM, CAUTION Contact points of rear main seal halves (5 and 6) should be at 4 o’clock and 10 o’clock positions or 8 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions. Failure to follow this caution may result in oil leakage and damage to rear main seal. Also, it does call for Anaerobic sealer, not RTV...

Are you planning to replace just the springs or all the parts? Looks like something else I need to think about replacing...

Today's update.

Good advice, I may do the same. As for why they rust here, I suspect the seam in the drip rail allows moisture into the corner and the whole area above and along the door opening. The seams on my drip rails need to be resealed; as well there are a few small holes along the seam I need to...

A few more, looking at these I do think 3" more than where I drew my line would be perfect. I am certainly not a master welder, so this will be challenging to say the least.

I used a sharpie to trace my intended work area. I'd like about 3" more than pictured along the windshield side to be safe, trailing down to 2-3" more on the door side. [thumbzup]

I'll take a few photos with a ruler and some markings to give you a better idea. Thanks. His build thread is my inspiration!

So I decided to fix a little rust problem on one of my M1009s. Ugh! Any advice for this repair? Anyone have a donor front roof corner? The bondo is not my handiwork. I found it like this once I started sanding.

No, in fact now that I recall the one from the 'burb is sitting in storage and the one in my truck came from a '87 parts truck (gas) I bought from Aboonski.

Plug and play. I have one in a M1009. Came from a late 80s diesel 'burb.

Well I think congrats are in order. Glad you got it running before torching it in an alley! :beer:

This is an interesting thread as I just dealt with a leaking wheel cylinder on a M109A3 (see avatar). The trucks sits unused most of the time and the front passenger side started leaking. I tore it down and rebuilt using a new star kit (Odiron) with the proper springs. The spring in the unit was...