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Most of those gauges say not to use on inverter type power or square wave power. The changes happen on the DC side but there must be something slightly different otherwise the gauge would know no difference. Unless the 831 would be clean enough power to not fry them I'd rather not try them and...

Frequency stays the same on both legs. I just like to know I'm at 120v and 61Hz before I open generator breaker on the panel instead of seeing it after. That's why I was curious as to what you had on yours on the generator side before it hit the main panel. I leave all my breakers on, except for...

Hey that is a pretty neat site! Is what you are ordering just a coupler that goes on the military master cylinder or is that a whole replacement? They don't have pictures with a lot of item numbers so hard to tell.

harleyhouse that one reason I want the channel, to be able to switch from ball to pintle. Evil Dr Porkchop $200 would be more reasonable for a complete working unit. I'm sure someone will give the guy $500 for a new one but it won't be me!

Actually there is a new one on fleabay right now. I'm not paying $500 for it though! I can make one for about $50 and I wouldn't have but a couple hours in it

I might keep an eye on fleabay before I fabricate my own then. harleyhouse I had found a couple that people had made like that. I'd weld a brace in those for sure if I were to do something like that. Not that an 803 is much weight to be pushing a trailer around, but I have seen to many single...

That is exactly what I am looking for! It can be made easily enough, but I'm sure cutting the pintle ring off the existing won't be fun. Can you confirm a model number on a trailer that would be on?

I have one that sits a little higher than I'd like for towing with my vehicle. I know I could change the tires and wheels and lower it, but it would be far cheaper to be able to lower the pintle by a few inches. I think the DRASH trailers had an adjustable pintle setup welded on most of them...

I just worked on a 2011 803A and almost everything was captive nuts. My personal 2010 803A did not have them in as many places as the 2011, but had far more than the 2008 I worked on previously. Seems like they added a few more every year of manufacture starting around 2009 or so

Any tips on taking the stator off without damage? Looks like the TM says it can come out the back with the load panel and two doors removed. How do you slide the stator off without making contact on the rotor? Supporting the engine will be easy enough with a couple blocks.

Actually I had considered this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kill-A-Watt-Electricity-Monitor-P4400/202196386 I was thinking about a plug off of each leg and just plugging one of these into each for my purpose. I can't think of any other way of wiring except to tag another 14 ga line in with the...

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Thanks. I did find that one earlier. It doesn't say if it will work with inverter type power that I can see. I sent them a message to see anyhow. I don't need frequency on both lines. I'd just like to be able to monitor it without going out through weather 125' away to see gauges. I plan on...

Ok I did a little digging and those weren't exactly what I was looking for. Maybe they don't make what I want. I'm looking for voltage, Hz, and amps on one gauge that can be used on inverter (831) and up to 80 amp capacity for the 803. Back to the drawing board!

Autopsy of the gauge shows burn mark on the rear of face. No other sign of arcing or burn marks.

If I'm reading the -24TM right it looks like the whole generator end needs to come out to rotate the rotor? Any way to just spin it without complete removal? Also, how do you stop the rotor from contacting the stator and damaging one or both? I've not had to open any up this far yet. I still...

I don't doubt my 803 will start every time. I just don't need that much power during the winter. I heat with wood so running a well, a few LED lights, and fridge are all I need unless it's hot outside or a prolonged outage that would require running the dryer.

I use it any time I work on a new unit to move the oil through it before starting.

I have about 8' of pipe running off mine. I also wrapped it with exhaust insulation to keep it hot till it gets out to reduce condensation. Any condensation that forms runs into a 4" drip leg with a drain valve right off the side of the generator. That way nothing can run back into the unit even...

This is what I've been looking for. I hadn't had time to really dig into it. I'm using a pair of old analog meters I had inline back from a portable generac setup.