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Right. And even with the queen dead, more bees will move in to the old hive a year or three later. That's why I want to entirely remove the wax and honey from the truck.

I've already had them killed with actual poison; they come back later to re-inhabit the old hive. And the hive is very well buried inside the turntable area of the truck.

Back in the day, I had a little problem with a family of bees who moved into the recesses of my M543A2's crane bed: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/13149-help-bees-my-m543a2-wrecker.html I ended up hiring a professional exterminator, who solved the problem with extreme prejudice. Well...

I think that the only way to get the real answer would be to run controlled tests in the same manner that engine oils, gasoline additives, etc. are tested (to the best of my knowledge): Start with multiple brand new engines that are as nearly identical as possible. Tear them down and carefully...

Wow, that's really amazing! [thumbzup]

Purchasing an aftermarket limited slip differential oil additive and then pouring it into both a differential and an automatic transmission does nothing to imply that the additives normally found in over-the-counter gear oil and over-the-counter ATF are the same. I could pour salad dressing into...

Sand also modifies friction, but it doesn't make oil slipperier. Just the term "friction modifier" tells us nothing. Modification may be either an increase or a decrease, and it may not even be the same under varying conditions. The answer lies in determining what the specific friction modifiers...

The trailer body is aluminum, so magnetic lights won't stick at all.

1. I think that pintle height should work ok for an empty tow. I suggest getting some trailer lights to temporarily mount to it, since it'll have 24V lighting and the NATO military trailer connector, and there's no guarantee that its lighting is in working condition anyway. Magnets won't stick...

Your truck looks good! :driver:

Now that I've read the -24-1 (spring brake valve) MWO document, I can see that the MWO wasn't actually applied to my truck, despite being listed on the MWO plate. My truck has the unmodified parking brake lever and the original spring brake valve bracket.

I've studied the M939-series wiring diagram and P2P program some more, and it appears that the 12V tap is only used to power the cab heater fan when in low speed mode. I think that a single battery disconnect switch between the negative battery terminals and the chassis should work just fine in...

I got an M923 from GL/Barstow recently. I didn't preview in person; I do NOT recommend that you take that gamble! My EUC clearance took two weeks, though your mileage may vary on that. I had a towing company pick the truck up, and they said that the local GL folks were not hard to deal with. GL...

You're probably right about it being for the spring brakes. I think the title on LOGSA said something like "S BRAKE CONTROL VALVE...", and I probably mis-guessed the abbreviation.

It's been many years since I removed/replaced the IP on a 6.2, but as I recall, lining up the marks on the IP and block is a fine adjustment. It's still necessary to get the proper gear teeth engaged with each other. If I recall correctly, this involves rotating both the crankshaft and the IP...

Interrupting the positive lead, the negative lead, or the between-batteries dogbone will all remove the batteries from the circuit (assuming there's nothing drawing power from the 12V tap at the dogbone cable). A switch in any of those three points would have prevented your accidental welding...

I'm thankful that the stinkiest thing I live near is a smallish chicken ranch. The smell doesn't visit me at home, and it's quick to drive by. It does make a useful navigation aid, though... "Turn the corner, drive past the chicken poop smell, then turn left". Back to the topic: In addition to...

I think it is the site that's doubling posts. I get the "15 second between posts" warning frequently when I post, no matter which computer I use. My post gets submitted, and the 15 second limiter appears to be the only thing keeping me from double-posting. I don't have similar problems anywhere...

On that topic, I ordered up a few of the Pollak brand keyed disconnect switches that I generally use... and then discovered that my new M923 has loads connected to the 12V point. The M923 has four batteries in a series-parallel configuration. They're only paralleled at the ground and 24V points...

That will work. I think there are potential safety advantages to switching the ground lead, but switching the center connection has the benefit of not needing any changes to the existing + and - leads.