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I would do as colomil did, get the alternator setup from a m1009 or m1008 and put it on your truck so you keep the 24v, plus you will still be able to use the TM's for wire troubleshooting.
If you were to change over to 12v, you'd have to find a 12v alt. that would bolt in place of the stock...
Let me use an analogy.
you have two cups of water. you have one tube that splits into a Y to fill them both. (this is the setup of the batteries and alternator in a deuce)
as you start the truck or use the lights, water is being taken from both batteries at the same rate (assuming no...
Butch & Kenz, please add your location (state, and part of state if not city) to your profiles.
Its one of the few rules.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/profile.php?do=editprofile
the main issue with pulling from the center is the charging,
since you can only charge across both batteries in the deuce (cant charge individually) the battery that was reading 10.5v will get charged up to 12.6 (full charge) and the other battery will get charged the same ammount so it may be...
the yoke nut is just torqued down, no preload needed since all it does it hold the drum on.
The TM should have the torque value. I'm betting its in the -30 (look for parking brake replacement)
Application 12v Bulb Number 24v Bulb Number (what I had before converting)
Small bulb in front marker lights and taillights, dash lights 67 or a 97 (both work) 1251
Large bulb in taillights 1156 1683
Headlight 55-60 watt H4 70-75 watt H4
Turn signal indicator (in switch housing) 1445 313
instead of returning the alternators, take them to an GOOD alternator shop and just have them put the fiber washers in to isolate the grounds.
FYI the drivers side alt does NOT need to be an isolated ground, but the passenger side ABSOLUTELY MUST!!!!
For high-draw systems like a stereo your best bet would be to mount a 12v alternator under the hood and charge a seperate battery for the 12v stuff, keep the two systems isolated from each other.