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you can drop the pan without raising the engine, you will want to put the frame up on jackstands to take the weight off of the front axle and get it to drop down some.

Add your state to your location please, the city doesnt help if we dont know what state your in ;)

you will need a press to get that insert out. Memphis Equipment sells the new rubber ends.

The 60G is not the military spec'd part for the cucv. The wellman 070 is the correct part. Glad you replaced the 13g's though, those are not good to have in a motor.

We have them here on OUR site ;) Check the "resources" listing on the menu bar [thumbzup] (we will be moving the TM's over to the new software, but it hasent happened yet)

Guys, this post was a month old, without any more comments ;)

IF you already have the 6tl's just run them until they die, until this past spring i had a set of 6tl's in my 1008 that were manufactured in 1991, one of the batteries failed but the other is still testing within 3amps of rated capacity.

The CUCV does not use 24volt glow plugs. Voltage is run through the large resistor on the firewall (done so the truck can be started from a 24volt truck using the slave recepticle) so the plugs only get ~16volts max when the system is working properly. As plugs fail the voltage will raise...

it leaks from between the sensor and the port on the metal housing that it plugs into. www.oem-surplus.com has new filter housings for $50 (including filter), so if you dont want the hassel you can just replace the whole filter base.

We dont limit private messaging by your post count, all members are allowed to pm ;)

NO, By adding another glow plug you are changing the resistance across them all (they are wired in parallel.) This is going to cause them to not heat as much, since the current is now being split 9 ways instead of 8. If you want a good way to see that they are on, just wire in a tiny...

unless your truck has already been hacked (converted to 12volt) Please stick with the 24v starter, they can be completely rebuilt by any competent starter shop for ~$130. Several guys here on the site have extra pulled starters (should be gone through) for fair prices. If you decide to...

Here is a direct link http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=10

www.saturnsurplus.com

Check the rubber lines from the filter, from the line on the frame to the lift pump, and from the hard line on the engine to the injector pump (under intake manifold.)

go to this post, its the tech manuals for the cucv's. http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=15514&sid=40f0d2ea51a789611b6fe0c6c8116f8b Its still on the old version of the site (we just switched last week) so not everything has been moved over yet.

That sucks, and sorry to say NO three wont seal the turbo well enough. Time to pull the manifold off, a machine shop can get the fastener out for you, or you can replace the manifold.

With our vehicles being DOT5 from the military, any changes go the other way around.

Buy from him, they are the correct military spec'd part.

As long as you have two ORIGINAL MILITARY alt's they are interchangable. GEN2 MUST (READ ABSOLUTELY MUST!!!!) have an isolated ground.