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In thinking about it you could almost leave the front filter alone, you could leave the filter in it and all and keep it as a working filter.

Bingo! I'm not a machinist but the only thing that would need to be machined would be one bolt. From what I've read on previous threads is it can all be done on the rear most filter housing. The center bolt is your out from the engine to the filter housing and tou could weld a bung into the...

I think a remote filter setup would be way better then the adapters and could be done for much less.

I'm thinking your right.... The truck is simple so keep it simple. I like the single bars better. Easier to make and cheaper. I'm thinking of using heims in the front and some energy suspension bushings in the back that I have laying around from a old bronco that I never put them in.

Mudguppy how long are your bars? I have some schedule 80 structural 1 1/4" steel pipe laying around and I'd have enough to make to bars at 60". Is that long enough you think?

Or do you think this setup isn't needed on a deuce?

How would something like this work? This is the setup my boss has on his diesel pulling truck. With the triangulated ladder bar the axle wrap cannot be transmitted through the front shackle cause it is up and down force but the horizontal movement of the lead spring from the rear shackle is...

I got the cheaper impact but I hope it works good. I just bought it yesterday

Do you think leaves could be taken out of a bobber if there are no plans of hauling with it?

I never had a problem with ballistic fabrication

Yes BUT they have to be built right to keep full articulation with out binding. Your bars look good but the type of joint can limit travel. I was going to use a misalignment heim or a Johnny joint. Or your could run regular heims with out using a jam nut so the heim can thread in and out of the...

Making a set of traction bars out of some 1 1/2" Dom tubing and hiem joints should be pretty simple. I plan on doing it myself and putting pins in so I can pull them in and out quickly for off-roading. I'm going to find out really quick of the truck is going to hop or not with m105 springs when...

What about gripserts? The work like rivets but they hae threads on the inside. So you could bolt the panel in place. Then you could put stuff (fuse blocks, power inverters, etc) in between the exterior wall no the panel, if you ever have to get into the stuff you could just unbolt the panel.

I have done all that. I just wanted to see what some of you guys have done

So what ever was figured out with this? I'm getting my truck in a few weeks and will be bobbing it. I'd have to go with a class 5 or 6 registration which is $240 to $280 a year. Can I get a antique plate on it and drive it a couple times a week and use or to haul?

No I'm still waiting to pick up my truck lol. Power steering is a long ways off, but the fan will be installed shortly after I get the truck.

I'm actually thinking about taking all the boxes off and relocating the tank and battery's to the bed for more ground clearance.

Couldn't you just drill it out to 7/16" and use a brass/bronze bushing? McMaster carr has 5/16" id 7/16" od brass bushing for $1 a piece or the white plastic bushings for $4 for a pack of 5 it's only .047" difference from 25/64"

What **** is that supposed to mean?

I still don't know what I'm going to do yet. I was going to mount a second fuel tank on the drivers side so it would match the passenger side cause I'm OCD like that. Then I thought it's gonna suck getting tools out of a bed tool box all the time so I figured mount the box where the spare hangs...