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Drive like you don't have brakes... downshift/coast as much as possible up to a stop. Test the brake pedal semi-regularly as you drive.

Yup, pretty sure I already mentioned that post#80 And me in #151... at least the point 400-500 rpm at the spiders isn't a great idea absent proper lube. Oh well, anyone who searches or read this has been informed.

The amount of precession you're describing is a long way from the type of speeds the spiders would see with one lockout at 50mph. You're talking about spinning the spiders at a constant 400-500 rpm with no real bearings and only splash lube. As they spin, are they going to magically "suck"...

Some time to think about it... What is the normal load on front spider gears? As 90% of the time the trucks are in 2 wheel drive, and even when turning they are turning rather slowly... not high. What is the failure rate in that environment? In the newly proposed environment where they are...

He saved my bacon rallying the cavalry on my recovery nightmare. :beer:

Clinto hit the nail on the head as far as engine longevity. 289/302 Ford (as one example) 1965 100k was good, in 1993 200k+ was common. The difference was the injection system. After a particularly cold winter, the old guys used to talk about the "good old days" when they could be assured of...

There is no fuel in the turbo. Ever. (Unless we are talking unburned in the exhaust side)

I'm curious what your EGTs would be on straight diesel.

If you run methanol/ethanol in a multifuel you might need to make sure you have a new engine and a crane at the same time. Meth injection in multifuel = boom. We already covered this and explained why it happens. Same goes for propane.

For these nozzles? About 50-80psi I would suspect. It would require experimentation. Keep in mind, you SUBTRACT the boost pressure from the Pump pressure to find your injection pressure. If your pump only puts out 10 psi, for example, the pressure in the intake at 11psi boost would actually...

Pressure is required to assure proper misting of the water. How much is dependent upon the nozzle and flow required. I don't think that pump will be able to do the job. However, it might be a great way to refill the high pressure side.

We could all build race/puller engines if we wanted. I'm a bit more interested in finding out why the rebuilds are chunking rod bolts. If the data works out that these bolts were damaged by re-use or something in the rebuild process, simply dropping in new bolts covers the bases for 99% of us.

Unless there is a clearance issue physically removing them while inside the crankcase, then there should be no issue. Resizing compensates for wear on the rod, but it is not required. Edit: While you're there you might as well drop in rod and main bearings if required. Honestly, these...

Awesome! Nice to see you making progress on her. I'd love to know what you find when you pull the head(s)

I'm still hoping for the midget...

If it isn't over filled, then the front seal on the trans is leaking. Or (very unlikely) the front of the case could be cracked. Or (Least likely, but most interestingly) you have an angry midget hidden under the truck who lubes your flywheel as you drive. Best ideas I have.

Most were unplugged for long periods of time. Make sure the wires are on and have power with a test light. Check for the switch's function, and then tap it with the handle of a screwdriver. Although I'll wager you'll unplug it a week after it starts working normally.

Simple test. Find a broken bolt and a good used bolt in the same engine and have a NDT check done for metal fatigue. Do the same for a non-rebuilt engine. I'm sure someone has one that lost a head gasket or was just spanked some other way. If it is metal fatigue from something done in the...

4140 would be a high grade bolt. The final temper would probably be a treatment AFTER the threads were made... but most likely grade 8. I don't think the issue is cheap bolts per se, but that they are under great stress due to the balance tolerance they were exposed to, age, and the fact they...

The balance on the LDS/LDT is a bit odd. They swapped solid vs hollow wrist pins and two different piston castings without changing the balance on the crank. VASTLY greater changes in mass than a swap of differing grade bolts... But, I have no doubt that is a factor in the high-RPM failure...