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I used a piece of #2 from the batteries to a modified DC distribution block and then shortened the factory wire with the fusible link to the 12 volt junction near the GP relay. I moved the buss bar over one hole to allow for a 12 volt only stud, the rest of the bar is still 24 volts.
Eventually...
My M1008 does the same thing. The fuel door rattles like crazy at idle, I have not noticed a correlation between the rattle and the fuel level. I keep the truck full of fuel at all times. The truck always starts and runs great.
When I start driving it again (after the road salt goes away) I...
I finally had time to measure the GP current and voltage today on a stock M1009 that has the standard resistor bypass procedure completed.
Test Set Up:
Cold engine approximately 58 degrees F.
4) AC60G glow plugs connected.
Resistor bypass procedure completed.
Installed ammeter inline at the...
What is the resistance value between the 2nd metal contact down (on the edge of the card near your burnt trace repair) and the one at the very bottom of the GP card?
Or, plug the GP card in and disconnect the Light Blue wire from the relay. Measure the resistance between the Light Blue wire and...
This is on my list of electrical modifications to do as well.The only difference is that I am planning on adding a 125 to 150 amp circuit breaker or fuse. I will need to do a little more research on what my current demands will be.
Any additional wiring that is done in a vehicle needs to have a...
That's a great question.
Unfortunately I no longer own that truck. But I do know that the batteries were good. So I would guess/estimate that the voltage was around 12.8 VDC.
I did not measure the voltage before, during or after the tests. I was just interested in current draw.
I may just...
You may want to read some of the Similar Threads found near the bottom of this page.
There is lots of information on here from people that have found various reasons (and cures) for the low heat issue common to CUCV's.
A little bit of searching and reading will help you diagnose and repair...
I finally found the ammeter pictures. Full scale is 50 amps on the meter.
One picture is the current draw for 4 glow plugs and the other is for 2 glow plugs. The pictures were taken after about 5-10 seconds of heating time.
This M1009 truck has the resistor by-pass modification.
Karl
I used an ammeter on one of the orange wires that feeds 4 of the glow plugs a the GP relay.
The engine was not started and was "cold". I observed the meter deflect to the far right of the meter between 45 and 50 amps. So 100 amps is a safe number.
I posted a picture of the actual current draw...
Sounds like you may have a bad battery connection or cable.
Read this thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?72880-Battery-Wiring-Maintenance
Be sure to check all of your battery cables and connections along with the connections on your starter and ground wires as well.
I may have 2 left after supplying my friends with a couple of them. If I do end up with any extras I will let you know.
They were not cheep but they are GM OEM. These parts hunters knew what they had and the value of them.
I also found military fuel caps, starter brackets for the direct drive...
I found 8 NOS GM 14038644 throttle cables so I installed one to fix the frayed one on Blazer 3. Also modified the heater fan to run off a single power feed and use 3 relays to select the fan speed. This modification takes more current off of the head light switch.
Karl
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