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I painted the back side first. Then cleaned off the old body sealer. I used a paintable sealer from the local hardware store. Then riveted it back together. I have a nice air "POP" rivet gun that's worth it's weight in gold. Found it on epay years ago. I happen to have a couple rivets...
In order to use the old fender as a drill template I cut off anything that wasn't flat. I used a cut off wheel on a grinder and it made quick work of it.
Then I took the template and matched up vent mount holes and a couple of the predrilled rivet holes as best I could. Tightened the vent...
Moving on to the next project, the passenger side front fender has some minor damage. It could have been fixed with a little bondo but who wants that? So tonight I removing the fender. First I started drilling the rivets. Not as much fun as it sounds and takes a lot longer than you would...
I had to go back and reread my post because I didn't recall mentioning anything about suspension or ball joints. You can test what I said if you want, it will take a couple of strong guys. If you hold the brakes on and have some people rock your vehicle back and forth you will see what I was...
Got the seals in today for the steering column and finished it. The install went pretty smooth. Turns out 2" shorter and moving the directional mount 1" is just about perfect. There is plenty of hand room around the wheel and pretty much has full travel up and down for adjustment. The horn...
I did the change with a kit and although you could make something yourself, the kit is designed to add reinforcements to the floor for the seat. It wasn't simple but it wasn't hard either.
I think with a different engine you could take 12" out right down the center and it would still be 6'2" wide. It would be a lot of work to move the frame rails closer and take 6" out of each CV shaft. I definitely think it could be done and would look more proportionally correct. I'd be...
I'm not so sure it wouldn't be easier to convert it to 12v. Depends on if you plan on using all the stock accessories like the glow plugs and controller, alternator and any other 24v system. The 4L80 needs to use a controller and (just a guess) the new engine probably uses an ECM tied to the...
There is a guy locally that was mounting a Humvee body on a truck frame and using the stock truck drive train. He was using the straight axle from the truck. IMO it's not a great idea. I'm not sure what motivated the project.
I looked at a lot of options, some you can find here ... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2210080
I ended up going with H2 wheels. If they are stock wheels, the center needs to be machined slightly to fit the H1/HMMWV hub. The wheels stick out about 1...
You brought up an interesting concern regarding collapsing steering columns in HMMWV's. So from what I can tell, the H1 does not use a Ford Escort steering column. It does use a similar steering column as the HMMWV with the exception that it is fitted with a more consumer like directional...
Here is the finished and assembled column. Overall length is 2" shorter than stock. The directional mount is moved 1" forward on the column to clear the dash on the shortened column. Obviously there is a performance gain from the reduced overall weight LOL
The stock steering column had shrink tubing on each end of the brass horn contactor and where the wire for the horn goes into the steering shaft (3 red arrows). I used Vulcanizing rubber tape instead of the shrink tubing. If you haven't used this stuff I highly recommend you get a roll. I...
When I left off with this thread almost 2 years ago last thing I was doing was looking for tires and wheels to move away from the stock Mud tires and 16.5" wheels. I found a good deal on a set of 5 H2 wheels and tires. They had like new BFG 37x12.5x17 A/T All Terrain tires mounted and ready to...