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I think GovPlanet does a great job with pictures and video that you likely won't get in a private sale. That said, good luck finding a private sale for less than $15K.

Finished the dash lighting. Went with a Patriotic Red, White and Blue. With total darkness ...

I just updated and replaced my gauge panel. Along with it I wanted to go with Patriotic lighting. Good ole Red, White and Blue. Full darkness

Well that didn't work. 90-120 psi did not release the clutch. Any other suggestions? What are the 6 little screws on the back side that remove towards the pulley?

Here's a 24x24 section. https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/panel-cargo-floor-painted-24x24/

When I replaced the taillights a couple of years ago I noticed all the connectors were dried out and cracked. At the time I just gooped them up with dielectric grease. I have since purchased replacement connectors and with redoing the light buckets and all, now is a good time to fix it. The...

My dash cluster worked but had some issue from age. Some of the brackets that hold the gauges in were cracked or broken. Everything was just old, 29 years old to be exact. So I built a new gauge cluster and updated the water temp gauge. I kept the original speedometer but it had its share of...

Continuing the radiator removal, I found the metal lower radiator hose/connector in somewhat rusty condition. While I have it apart i'll replace that. Overall everything looked good. The belts are a little stiff but not cracking, i'll probably replace them while I'm right here. After...

I started removing the radiator stack so I can change the water pump pulley to a 5 groove to prepare for an AC install. Also the radiator has a couple of corner brackets that have come desoldered from the core. Once I get it out, drained and dried I'll get the corners fixed. In the mean time...

I cleaned up the rear corners and replaced the light buckets. Although I ordered the correct rivets they don't seem to be correct. It took a while to figure out how to get them right. New reflectors on the way as well.

With the part number supplied I was able to find one for $25. It's on its way. About the only thing missing now is the transmission and transfer case.

Thanks for the information, downloaded the TM, it will be very helpful. And what a great page to start at 1776 !!

Where would I find that?

Great, that's pretty much what I thought but I only have experience with 1 HMMWV, mine. It's better to ask people that have experience with many.

You can easily remove the oil fill in the hubs and then check the line. That won't cause any back pressure or damage seals.

Thanks for the reply, my driveshaft is the old style with the flange that bolts on the yoke. I have a TH400 and 318 (iirc). I bought the driveshaft in 2019 before I really knew what I was looking for, it was cheap. I have been collecting parts for the conversion and planning for the swap. I...

I was hoping someone would know for sure what I am trying to do will work. I'll just order it ( 5937525 ) and hope for the best. Thanks for the replies.

I have the driveshaft. I need one of these for the 1350 universal joint.

Here is what I have. Ultimately I'm hoping I can use it in my m998 with the stock differential and 6.5 GEP converted to 4L80 with 242. I believe it is the correct length and will fit the 242 output. I also think I only need to change the differential yoke. Based on the information above...

Thanks, that's the one I thought it was but couldn't confirm it. This year I'm doing a 4L80/242 conversion and I have 12K driveshaft from a A2. If I understand correctly the universal is larger and requires the 12K yoke on the differential. I believe it is a direct swap from the original m998...