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I still see some on gov surplus auctions, but they've usually been sitting in a back lot somewhere and are badly weathered and don't run. I got mine from someone on here.

This reminds me when the city repoured the sidewalk in front of my house, they asked me not to drive the truck over it for a month, and they also told me they poured it extra thick for my house. For your tie downs, maybe this can help: http://imfmotorpool.com/010913.PDF

I read earlier in your thread that you don't go to car shows. Might I suggest you try a general car show. I do 2-3 a year and I first thought no one would care about my old truck around all those classic cars, but instead I spend the day talking about the truck. Mine is often the only vehicle...

You could always apply a dozen layers of clear coat and wax that up. Again, it's your truck if you want it to look shiny, more power to you, it's not like you'll be going to war in it.

Installed a new fuel sender at the tank. Of course it didn't take the 5 min I thought it would because one screw was stripped and because it was next to the fuel line my 1/2" shank screw extractor wouldn't work... Everything's a production with this truck.

I think it would depend on what kind of paint you have and how much time you have to work all the variable shapes around the truck. I know it wouldn't work on my truck, but if you've got some more conventional paint on yours, meh, go for it. I mean, if you treat it like a show truck, why not...

My neighbor may be building a fence soon (my deuce is too wide for my driveway and is partially on their land) so I've made arrangements to store it at a friend's place, out in the woods. I've already looked on Amazon and found a 20' x 40' tarp that I was thinking I'd stake around the truck to...

My plate is mounted on the rear mud flap splash guard just below the frame, driver side (though I don't think that would matter). Front plates are required in my state, but I've never bothered with a front plate and have never been stopped for it - and I drive this thing a thousand miles+/year.

If you're looking for authentic... http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/m35a2_camo.pdf http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TB43-0147.pdf http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TB%2043-0209.PDF

Don't know your long term plans, but with that extra tank, you could convert it to diesel and put in a dual fuel switch. Start/finish on diesel and put something else (used motor oil) in the main tank. And we're getting way off topic.

Conceal carry might be a problem overseas, I might bring a flint lock though, many gun regulations don't apply to it because it fires so slowly. I have an aussie, but she's a sweetheart.

I'll be redesigning my own panel in place of the original for things I want to glance at while the truck is in motion (speed, tach, pressure gauges, temp gauges, fuel tanks, etc). The panel above the windshield will have other items that I don't need to look at as much, usually at start up or...

Due to a few circumstances, I haven't gotten to buying/installing new gauges yet. However, in post #2 is a link to the gauges I will probably go with. SW Deluxe series probably has the most gauges that match the scale our trucks use. If you're not looking for as many gauges or don't care if...

Yep, lots of threads about that. That's something I'm gonna do. But I didn't find any threads about shutters so here I am. I've narrowed the door lock to either the dead bolt I saw someone attached below the door or a container lock I found that I'll put on the door. This is an example, not...

I think I'd rather go with something more or less opaque. I suppose, if you can't see it you might want to get in to see what's worth covering up, but then if they see there are easy to rip off items then they might be more tempting to try and break in - still, I think I'd rather go with the...

I want something that can't be kicked in, or "quickly" smashed. As with all upgrades, there is a sweet spot between weight, cost & convenience. Bullet resistance polycarbonate or acryllic is light but expensive (~$100 sq/ft+). If I can't get the cost down to something in my budget range, I'm...

I am putting electronics in the cab and want to avoid smash & grabs. 1/4" steel plate is ~10lbs per sq/foot. That would make the door shutter around 45 lbs which is waaay more weight than I'm looking for. I sent away for a sample of 1.5" UHMWPE which is 8x lighter than steel. All together...

So, I'm about to put some stuff in my cab that might be attractive to thieves. Obligatory: I know nothing can be fully secure, I just want to prevent opportunity thieves, drunks, amateurs and/or slow someone down as I also intend on sleeping in the back while traveling. Anyone seriously...

Please find a thread for me (that's wasn't started by me) that tells how long the battery cables should be. You'd think it would be easy "battery cable length", yeah, no. I spent 5 years in university and my specialty is research (history major).

The following is not meant as a rant, though it may seem that way. I really do appreciate all I've learned from this site... I have spent hours and hours on this site in research. Some of it fruitless and down right frustrating. The search function doesn't work if you don't know the name of...