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I've used these in the past for lifted ones. Think it lessens the preload on the bar and moves it back a little. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

The sway bar is a bear to hook up!! I think they make drop kits to use with a lift kit since they don't like to reach. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Those cross bars like to rust bad. Was one of the first things I found nos and bought several. I got some pintle mounts too. Those mounts you replaced would be hard to find I think they're part of the frame? You still have that roller frame? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Oh geez..if you go by it showing high that's not good! Wonder if that gage is really off or you're not charging at all. Have you checked the battery with the voltmeter yet? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I get that! Now that you know your gage reads a few high, you know it's ok. I wonder if there's an adjustment knob in there to get it calibrated?? Coolant leaks are work...water pump is a good bit of tear down. I did one a few months ago. I used that high flow one, flowcooler, that was about...

That adds up! I'd wait about 20 minutes after you start it to make sure the batteries are kinda recharged from starting it too. Typically I'll check the batteries in the morning before I start it to see where they are then start it and let it run and see where it lands...by tech the one...

Nah no biggie!! 24 volt stuff can be confusing until you figure it out...once you do though it's easy. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Positive post on the back battery and negative on the front. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I know where a new steering wheel and parking pad is too...I got so much new stuff laying around!!! Looks great!! Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

29 or so is about right! Running that is..each alternator does 14.5 or so...depending on battery condition and resistance in the battery cables are what you'll get. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

That's great news!! Glad it worked out. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

That firewall does look awesome!! I haven't seen a non ac factory style heat sound matt for a long time. If you want the heat and sound reduction the lizard skin I've been using works great. You can paint it back to the green and not really know it was done. I know you're going for the factory...

Well in the general rule with engines if one end turns over then the other doesn't the crank most likely broke. Possibly flywheel bolts sheered off or something odd like that could maybe do the same thing. Sounds like you really need the set so spending time to take it apart might not be...

Any chance the fuel is bad or has water in it? Fuel filter blocked up some? Could be loaded up on diesel in the cylinders might smoke for a bit. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Yes under the dash, it's the bottom fuse...if you use a volt meter you can verify the 24 volt one. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I'm not sure but check the 24 volt fuse in the box...I can't remember but it might power that gage. The 24 volt system is very simple once you map it out. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

You should have a ground going from the last intake post to the ground bar on the firewall. The body ground goes off the same stud to the body. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Any chance you sparked the connections on the alternators when doing the belts? Is it making power? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

A new pump will take about a quart plus a little depending on if you replace all the lines too. It doesn't hold much. As far as tough issues it depends on how you are buying your pump...with or without the res...You'll need a puller for the pulley to swap over too. Once you get the new one...

Is that little wire purple? I don't remember the end with that plastic part on them like a fusible link...you sure that wire is the right one for the solenoid? I'd test it in the start position to see if it gets power. Plus you should hear the relay click under the dash. Sent from my SM-S906U...