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That is the way the tech manual says to do it... 20-3 manual ch 10...

You can make your own. 3 large female spade connectors to match the new bulb terminals, 3 bullet connectors to plug into the back of the receptical, 3 pieces of wire, crimpers and bobs your uncle:) I made mine in about 10 minutes to adapt to the new Halogen bulbs, H6’s I think...

Yep, I got that wrong, the 1156 is a single contact. So is the smaller g6 bulb. Basically they did with 2 bulbs what most autos do with the dual filament 1157...

yea, what he said! A52463-2-13 is a dual contact bayonett bulb number 1156 W-L-00111/66 is a single contact bayonett G6 bulb Take a light apart and remove the two bulbes. Very common bulbs that any autoparts store should have on the shelf...

I am think 1/8” would be extreme overkill... The problem you will run into with 1/8 Plate is bending it to cleanly match the curvature of the front of the cab... I was planning on no thicker than 16ga. I will cut ribs to match the cab curve with a plas, weld them together in a grid/frame and...

Got all kinds of ideas, just none that I can easily share as they are still in my head:)

Here is how I do it. On the front the easiest spring end to reach is the end of the upper spring where it attaches immediately to the rear of the actuator. Flat piece of 1” steel will slip in between the end of the spring hook and the hub assembly. I use a crescent wrench to rotate it until...

You don't need a brake spring tool. You only really need to do 1 spring end to remove/install the shoes. I used a piece of 1” strap to twist/roll the spring hook out and an old large screwdriver with a notch in the end to put the hook back in the hole. Just did one on Friday and pln on doing...

https://youtu.be/Rc_prnIg9Fg

Mine has one of those, but it is on the inside of the cap...

Or adding fuel from a bed tank or barrel...

Mine dosnt have one of those... Handy way to prime the fuel system(or splode the tank:))...

According to my cad drawings from where it turns down in the front to the beveled top edge(flat portion) is 4’ 3-7/8”. Between the top of the bevels side to side, 6’ 13/16”

He is looking for the elbow where the hose exits the body... I remember seeing it, maybe it was mentioned in a wiper nozzle thread... and about those wiper nozzles, I tried them and they were junk... 2 of the 3 clips broke just trying to install them. Went with a different part(dorman 47191)...

These are pics of a WTEC II ECU(has keyboard attached and wider display). The smaller one is a WTEC III control panel(narrower display opening). On a WTEC II, ECU and keypad are mounted together in the drivers dash and VIM is used to provide interface and relay outputs to the vehicle mounted...

The earlier pics you posted are WTEC III ECU’s... That last batch is a WTEC II VIM 24V 6 relay(looks just like mine:) It mounts up under the passenger dash with those 3 tabs and 3 10mm bolts... Oops, pic 7 and 8 above are of a WTEC2 keypad attached to ECU...

I rerouted mine outside the frame, but ran it behind the shock mount, cab doesn't touch it... Was a pain to clean the wire/hose bundle inside the frame rail and starter. Those should stay much cleaner now...

Yep, non-ingestive...

Not according to the parts breakdown. Gasket where it connects to the head and o-ring where the top cap connects to the filter base...

Not much to it. The filter base bolts to the side of the head over a port that connects in where the pushrods rise from lower block/camshaft. The filter base is hollow and the blowby gasses pass thru it up into the cap and hose and exit thru the hose. You can see these parts on pages 22-1 and...