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That is not correct. With a 4 wire setup the ground and neutral are extended from the main panel. The chassis is grounded through the ground lug and connected to the ground rod at the main panel via the ground wire.
Per code if you are wired up with a 4-wire setup and the neutral is bonded in the main panel at the service entrance, you need to remove the bonding jumper at the generator.
You should run it at full RPM at all times.
Load will only be applied via the output terminals. There is no way to load it internally. Its best to rent/borrow/build a load bank to give it a good workout before you need to use it in true emergency conditions.
This might sound crazy but I have made them using a couple of 5/16 JIC to 1/4 adapters. Buy a PVC ice maker hose of the length of your choice and just thread it together.
The best thing to do is to start your own thread. If you go to the top of the screen on the forum there is a link for "Technical Manuals". You can go to the generator section and find the technical manual for your machine. There will be wiring diagrams in there.
You can see a cleaned up...
They could have started it via the DC power port on the side. Its a round port on the side of the generator. Its a 24v setup so the batteries will be in series.
Normally you will have a long cable to the ground that goes to the side opposite from the starter on the engine and to the negative...
that is not recommended. You should not connect the generator to your house until after it has been properly tested with a load bank. You will be putting expensive stuff at risk.
Is that an actual military cable? You can't get away with that in the civilian world. Its a code violation. Black, red, and blue for load bearing conductors. You are not allowed to repurpose white or green as load bearing.
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