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AHH I see, this would be much easier. However I do see some pros and cons between the two. Yours is rated for 1300LBS, BEFORE you added all those spacers:whistle:, and the U-bolt is just ,well sketchy looking.;-) That being said it will probably outlast the truck and us! The one I used was AH...

There factory equipment on all CUCV's I think there's ah few guy's that sell them on here, or I've seen them on Ebay as well.

Any hitch you try and install on these trucks is going to require notching the factory brackets. It's just the nature of the beast. That being said you mite as well go with the strongest one you can find. I went with the (B&W 25122) it has a 16000 tongue weight.

X2.. I'd take this opportunity to do the disc brake swap. It's about the same price or cheaper then rebuilding the stock drums. + far easier to service the brakes , and they won't collect and hold all that road salt.

This is an original dash thus rotted out. The P.O. hastily covered it with some black mesh fabric. So this is just a temporary set up till I can get a new dash pad. I currently just have it screwed into the pad and I poked ah hole to run the wires. When I transfer this to the new pad I think...

Installed duel gauge pods today. I moved the volt gauge into one hole in anticipation of adding AC, hopefully soon! I may need to add angled bezels to these so I can see them better from the drivers seat.

Could also be the rear brake shoes. If a pad has delaminated from the shoe or if the shoe spacer bar is missing or dislodged.

Agree, the banks kit I just installed uses the stock fuel pump but replaces the stock fuel pump adapter plate with one that has a 3\8" tube welded to it for the oil return.

X3 on the manual glow pug switch. Don't be lazy, fix it correctly. Whenever I see one of those I get visions of twisted together wires wrapped in duct tape:roll:.

Yeah I think so. If ain't broke, don't fix it! If, as you said it was running good , no smoke and such. Then rebuilding a 60K motor would be ah waste of money. If you take care of it , and change the oil regularly, then it should last for years of service. If it were mine I'd do the main seals &...

Agree with cucvrus, the TH400 does have a reputation for being very durable. Which is one of the reasons why I went the route of a Gear Vendors overdrive unit. Having an overdrive has made a world of difference in the usefulness of my M1028. There's several benefits to having one. (#1) the...

Agree I'd do ah quick reseal on the motor and spend the rebuild money on ah overdrive trans

Are you kidding! Leave it! duel fuel tanks are ah great upgrade to these trucks.

agree.....

Respectfully disagree. I've used rubber line for several street rod, muscle car, and drag car projects. It's perfectly acceptable to use, in fact necessary, over hard lines in tight spaces or where vibration will be an issue. Keep in mind our oil cooler lines are also rubber and aluminum . And...

You're right the steel lines are installed before the cab is set down on the chassis. It's near impossible to redo with most cars and trucks all together. I would simply run rubber lines to brass fittings and call it ah day. Oh and yeah, strap down those batteries LOL..

Yeah I saw that too. Only problem is it's for 73-77 that has the wiper switch on the dash, and it's $73.00 + shipping. So that pretty much puts us right back into the territory of ah whole column again.

Well I don't know if there's another way? But the video I showed you is the CORRECT way. It's extremely easy to do, the second time I did it, it only took me 5 minutes. Or half ah beer.

Well I finally found the part numbers for the wiper switch, (BWD, S3467) or (ac delco, D6283D). The cheapest I could find one for was $114.00 on amazon. Really not worth it when you can buy an entire tilt column used for around $100.00. So now I'm in the market for ah good used tilt column with...

Yes in fact you HAVE to turn up the fuel ah 1/4 turn when installing a turbo on a non-turbo 6.2. here's ah video on how it's done....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnoct-21vNY