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Ha! When I needed a bowl I paid a LOT more than I thought it was worth but that was pretty much the only viable option I found. :( A filter and a bowl is about $50.

Yep. The R12T is the correct element.

I don't think so. The listing says there are only 3 items in the package. Its hard to tell. Regardless its a 30 micron filter. The standard is a 10.

This should help. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132681-MEP-831-FAQ-for-owners-or-potential-buyers&p=1683852&viewfull=1#post1683852

Yea, +1 on when to do the throttle adjustment. Do it but just don't do it until the end when you otherwise have a good running set. I also recommend using a spring scale to set the pull-off strength of the magnet. You can spend an hour tweaking it and it will half-ass work or you can set it in...

Yea, its a float. You'll find the connections behind the engine. If you look behind and to the right of the alternator.

Hi, You'll need to troubleshoot the low fuel light. That is cutting the DC control power and keeping the speed controller from working. Have you downloaded the manual and looked at the electrical diagrams? Don't adjust the throttle linkage or anything until you have no alarms.

How do you have the external tank plumbed in? Is it connected to the AUX fuel input? Have you popped the lid to make sure there is fuel in the onboard tank? If there is fuel in the onboard tank I would recommend disconnecting the fuel pump outlet and see if the pump is working. You could...

I would recommend against doing anything to the throttle until you have the unit otherwise working properly. Its a finicky adjustment. Until you have the unit otherwise working properly you won't know if the throttle controller is working properly. That should be one of the last things you...

Dont mess with the throttle linkage until you have all the alarms resolved. Until all the controls are working the throttle controller wont work properly.

Yea, for what they are the engines are pretty reliable. On the plus side if something does break the engine parts are plentiful and not horribly expensive. You'll have fun playing around with them.

Be sure to give them a good checkout when you get them home. I've found a high percentage of the ones I've bought had speed controller problems. :( Luckily quite a few will fit in the back of a pickup truck. :)

I reluctantly sold my cream-puff 003 and replaced it with a fresh 803. I'm sure the neighbors will appreciate the switch more than the sadness I felt to not seeing the 003 on the trailer.

This would be a local disconnect but not an interlock to prevent backfeeding on the mains. Did the electrician also install an interlock on the main power panel for the house?

I've have stopped buying anything. There is no way to break even on them once you put some time into making sure they are ready to go.

To wire a 50a source to a 30a circuit you just need to install a breaker between them that is rated for 30a. You will have to run 50a wire between the generator and the breaker then you can run 30a wire between the breaker and the transfer switch.

I would recommend watching ebay and when you see one, buy it immediately.

Its common to install a defrost/emergency heat bypass relay for when you are on generator power. That relay will block the signal to the contactor coil that energizes the heat strips. My HP has 2 sets of heat strips. One set is used for emergency heat and one set is used for defrost. They are...

SA-3865 is the number to search for. That is the civilian part number. You'll find plenty of sources for compatible units. I was posting the link to GMG to identify the part in question.

You might consider building a frame around the generator using PVC tubing or thin galvanized conduit. That would give you an air gap around the generator and with your custom fabric solution allow you to run it with the flaps rolled up.