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You guys may want to check your state laws. You may be paying licence fees unnecessarily.

in NY no tag is required either. http://dmv.ny.gov/forms/mv274.pdf

In NC generators don't get tags.

You do. I've been buying things a piece at a time used so for me the rebate doesn't matter. They don't rebate used or salvaged equipment.

The base load on the house is about 600w. Ideally I would like a 400ah @ 48v battery system. A LiFePo4 can be discharged about 80% while still maintaining a reasonable cycle life. That would give about 320ah (15kwh) usable energy over approximately 5000 cycles before its capacity was reduced to...

I'm looking at using LiPoFe4 batteries. Specifically salvage batteries from a Nissan Leaf or Chevy Volt. Properly treated they will last 10 or more years of daily cycling.

Dual machines is my plan for now. The 831 is for low power times and the 803 is when I need full power. I have a Xantrex 6048 inverter that will be part of the system in the future. I'm waiting for the lithium batteries to drop in price more.

I could build a controller to parallel but due to the required instrumentation it would cost $1500 at least. I doubt anyone would want one for that.

The alternator is upside down from the ones I've seen.

Its like any other market. Bigger sharks move in and the smaller sharks move out. I would like to see prices lower here in the southeast but realistically I don't think its going to happen anytime soon.

What kind of fuel can are you looking to adapt to? If its a 55gal drum you can build a suction tube setup pretty easily for about $50.

They are pricey no matter where you get them. :-( http://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep002a-mep003a-bung-adapter-for-aux-fuel-kit-nsn-5342000661235-72-5092/

You need to run it through a battery bank to make the inverter happy.

Your meter not reading could absolutely be related to the breaker tripping. Have you exercised the reconnection switch in addition to the AM/VM switch? Move it fully left and right at least 10 times. Have you popped the lid off and gone through all the terminals looking for loose things?

I would recommend doing an opamp or optocoupler and setting that circuit up to drive the inputs at the proper level. You don't want to add any burden to the signal path between the sensor and the gauge. It will introduce an error. An opamp or optocoupler are high enough impedance to not shift...

Some yes and some no. You can tap the temp and pressure. You may be able to tap the voltage (I've not measured that yet). You can't tap the frequency at the gauge.

To be code compliant you are correct that the ground and neutral need to be bonded. Surprisingly it is not REQUIRED to drive a ground rod BUT I highly recommend it.

The photo that shows the wire to disconnect is in this post - http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?40290-MEP-003A-hook-up-question&p=446365&viewfull=1#post446365

Based on the photo, they are.

They are rated for high enough voltage but I personally will use them only for DC applications below 50v. They don't offer enough safety for me.