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So I went to work on it this morning and managed to get it out with the tools I had. It come right out after lifting the truck a bit more some I could get more leverage. Now, what do you guys use to get the old gasket off? I have a scrapper, but it doesn't seem to be doing a very good job...

I'll look for a reverse drill bit set tomorrow. My problem is going to be space to work, it's kind of at a premium where it's at.

Hello all. So, I got home early today and decided I would tackle the leaking oil pan gasket. Simple enough yeah? The first bolt I attempt to take off, I have my ratchet turned the wrong way, so instead of loosening, I tighten, and guess what, I snap the head off... I proceed to take the other...

The drivers side does not need to be an isolated ground, you van get one for the drivers side only at Autozone, DL7157. I replaced mine recently with this one. The first one I bought went out after a week, the second is going strong so far(lifetime warranty so no hassle with replacement). I...

I guess I should have worded my answer differently. My ignition will turn to acc, I do not have or have not found an empty slot that gets power while in this position. I forgot about the piggy back fuse on the wiper, thanks for reminding me, that what I was referring to others using.

Replaced my DL7157 gen1 after two weeks of light use with another one, at least getting a replacement was painless. Should be interesting to see if I just got a dud or what. Guess its time to rebuild my original.

So after several failed attempts at getting my title(info missing and such) and playing mail tag with ALDOR, my title arrived in the mail today and I promptly went and picked up a tag:doghead: I don't ever recall being so happy to go get a car tag, but while I was waiting I worked out numerous...

I'm in the same boat, but I'm considering rewiring. You will burn your plugs up leaving it turned to the on position, not sure about the board. Some guys on here have ignitions that when turned to ACC position, slots in the fuse panel are hot so they wired to them, but mine does not have that.

The resistor bypass keeps you from frying your glow plugs due to over voltage after one fails. The link I posted above explains how to set up the switch while keeping the card. Use the search function at the top of the page, all of the answers are here, just got to find them:beer:

Try this. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59375-Manual-Glow-Plug-install&highlight=manual+glow+plug+install

While I can't answer that question with certainty, I would think it could go bad either way, too much or too little. Its also possible the relay itself is bad. The best bet in my opinion is to not bother with replacing the resistor, they can be had with a quick search, but rather just by pass...

This doesn't answer your question, but have you considered bypassing the resistor all together? This will save your GPs from burning out due to over-voltage should one fail. If you do this mod, I would also suggest replacing the GP relay while your at it. Just my 2cents

So in my quest to find another oil leak, which I did(oil pan gasket) my light spotted something under the air filter/manifold. See pics below. It seems Mr. Mouse once lived in my vehicle. So remember everyone, if you get a vehicle that has been sitting idle for several years, check everything...

Mine started after two GP cycles during the snow we had last week. That's about as cold as Ive tried.

Welcome

Good stuff. My old one has a mfg. date of 04/09/91, part number 98226. Doesn't sound bad to me either, thanks for the info.

Ten seconds is good. The few times it has be in the 30s here mine stays on a bit longer. I have not observed my Wait light coming back on again, but it may be due to the "afterglow" cycle and being in gear? I haven't put mine in gear until after the high idle has gone down, that could have...

Im going to look at my old one when I get home and see if its the same one, as well as popping the top to take a look at the contacts. If shes starting better, I would say its worth it. I know the $35 I spent was worth it, so far:beer:

I am running BWD Continuous Duty Solenoid Part No S603 from Advanced Auto with no issues so far.

I will report this as well, and replacing the relay resolved my issue.