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Spray pattern won't matter. The question is are you getting ANY fuel sprayed? If fuel is being sprayed, regardless of pattern, you will get ignition if you have compression and your IP timing is right. No need for complexity. Just remove an injector, loosen the lines to it and re-tighten...

I have one (I think) but that is hardened stuff, I assume.

What Munchies said. Starting to sound like an IP problem if there are no air issues. Jerry

Cool!!! Jerry :beer::beer:

Munchies, As I understand it, he already tore it down. If you have the cross pin for the plunger shaft, that is what he needs. The small rectangle guide on it has sheared off. If you have any you are the world's source and I could use a few. Jerry

The broken pin is a killer for that pump. Probably why the pump was redesigned. The pin is no longer available and is the most common failure point on that pump by far. You will have to replace the pump. PM on the way and you will likely get one from Gimpy also. Either of us can help you...

I have several. If you need one, PM me. Jerry

Great! Jerry :grd:

I have noticed that whereas the "auxillary tank" pump runs full tilt on prime, the "prime and start" pump bogs down immediately, just kinda clicks along. Zeus, That is what should happen when your pumps have built up pressure. Doesn't mean there isn't air in the system, only that fuel pump...

Agree, but I'm not sure that you won't always have air in the discharge line because it has no check valve and air will work its way up as fuel falls. Better to bleed from an injector line disconnected from the injector, then when you have run a quart or two and have no air, reconnect to the...

While gauges at zero, did you put a meter on the convenience outlet to see what was really happening? Jerry

Congrats! Of course its possible there were no washers. One does what is necessary to keep thing running in the field. Jerry :tank:

PM sent

The pdf's cited are for two different IPs. The TM reference is for the oldest version of the IP with a plunger drive pin (NLA) and the AMBAC diagram is for the newer design with "bowtie washer". Brass washers are not the same. Which pump do you have? I have washers for both, I think. Jerry

which TM? Please copy and paste the diagram or give TM and page number.

Zeus Diesel, Are you out there?

I just re-read this whole thread for the fifth time and don't know why I didn't see this earlier. If there was no air the day before, where did it come from the next day? You seem to have an air leak somewhere. Is the check valve between the 3rd fuel pump and the IP working and installed in...

I have advised ZeusDiesel by e-mail to send the injectors back to me. It will only cost him postage. I'll retest them and pay the return postage. Otherwise, IMO, air in the system, IP malfunction, or a bigger problem is indicated as many have suggested. Easiest starting approach is to...

I agree with Munchies.

A tip. Remove the injector and heat sink and stuff the chamber hole to the piston so drilling debris does not fall where you don't want it. That way, if electrode does separate, you can easily retrieve it and clean up with a shop vac nozzled down using tape and a piece of pvc pipe. Jerry 2cents