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Well I'm switching to 395's soon myself but I discovered no one in my area will touch a split rim. So basically if I was staying with 9.00x20's I would just about have to buy a ready to go wheel and tire combo. I doubt I'm alone there.
Right until you discover the bore diameter of your wheel cylinder is bigger than the ones the rebuild kit is made for. Tho this seems to be an uncommon problem. The wheel cylinders that Erik's sells and I believe the ones Napa sells work with the rebuild kits available at Erik's.
It was over $500 for the shaft to be extended on the a3 me and a buddy are bobbing. That was with new u joints installed also I believe. The short shaft between the bogies I believe has the same ends as the long shaft. Tho even if they do have the same ends it won't matter since they will cut...
Just park on gravel like I do. Then you don't notice the leaks so much. Speaking of never ending maintenance I found that crack in my new to me a3 wheel.....just to find one of my front ndc's flat. To pour salt in the wound my spare also has a bad tube. So now I get to have 2 tubes replaced...
Probably fried your switch. Look on the air pack or MC and find something with 2 wires coming out of it. Jump those 2 wires together and see if your brake lights work. If they do you have a bad brake light pressure switch. If they don't still you have another problem.
Well g your advice is always appreciated. I'm debating on attempting to groove out the crack and have it mig welded or tig welded. I could possibly mig weld it myself but I have never used tig. However I know some people who are masters at tig and mig welding. I'll probably leave the welding...
Ya there's a guy here local I know who is one **** of a welder. I talked to a buddy who has extensive experience fixing aluminum wheels and he says give it a try. I'm gonna bring the wheel half and see what the pro welder says. I don't trust my own welding skills enough.
It almost looks like you could mount a tire and it wouldn't leak. That being said I would never run a wheel I knew was cracked. I think there is a place here in Shreveport that repairs wheels. The big question is I can get another from the same guy for $200. Maybe a bit less since this one...
Pretty much what I was thinking. O well I guess I got some spare lock nuts, studs and a valve stem for $200...hey wrecker what tires you have mounted to those wheels cause 395s is what I'm going with but I haven't ordered tires yet.
So today I was inspecting my A3 wheels I plan on using to convert my deuce to super singles. I was removing the valve stems, old o-rings, and knocking out a couple of bad wheel studs that hold the 2 halves together. I was also sand blasting some rust off in preparation for the wheels to be...
I can't say for the military wreckers but I have a mini skid steer that uses 10w-30 or 15w-40 diesel engine oil for its hydraulic fluid. Strange I know......and expensive. I wish it took normal hydraulic oil.
Nice fix on your wiper motors. Do you have the metal or plastic ones? My buddies truck has a dead air wiper. Can't remember what kind he has. Don't know if it matters.
I don't know about the long style but in the short style the spring is captured on the piston. You can pull the housing off with minimal risk. Is the spring not captured on the long style?
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