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the tail gate handle looks about right for a chevy.. ( I not a chevy hater just know there crap like the one on my truck. Dont start piss on Ford/Chevy stuff you hillbillys)

you can buy fliters with drain plugs. most large diesel filters have them.

the stock 09 axles will handle 33" tires no problem. If you go larger like around 38"s you will want the 60 and 14 bolt. Even with 35's you can get new grear and axle shafts for the 10 bolt and be ok. also if you want to run the hummer tires there 16.5 inch. going to the 8 lug opens the the door...

the glow plug inhibit is on the passenger side in the rear.

could be. There is a spring in there. ITs ez to change out. I would not worry about 90 PSI your not going to blow seals. seals hold back the oil while not under pressure.

well first of all your in the cckw page.... not the correct area. and I think you answered your own question. cylinder needs to be replaced.

the alt belts will make some squeaks when the glow plugs are on.... one its a huge load on the charging system and maxes out the alts when at idle. Injectors DO NOT BUY NEW ONES! just get the tips and rebuild them your self. If you can take the injector out you can put in a new set of tips...

snapon I think makes a timing light adapter for the diesel with hard lines but I dont mess with that. I just turn the pump (clockwise If I remember correct) 1/8-1/4 inch on the timing marks on the pump and block. A diesel is a litle more forgiving when it comes to setting the timing by ear. a...

ok guys.. here is the deal. #1 bump timing a bit #2 turn up fuel 1/6 of a turn #3 install new marine injector tips ($65 for all 8) and install new injector return lines ($25). The return lines dont give you power, just the factory ones will brake off. If you can change a spark plug you can...

yeah I got parts

its not skipping.. its going in to and right in to 3rd. What is happening is the trans moduator is broken or getting full vaccum signal from the pump. Here is what you do, first replace the modulato on the passenger side of the trans. It cost about 12 bucks from autozone or whoever. If that does...

700 were junk for the first 4 years, after that there a good trans. If you get a rebuilt unit your safe. Ony thing is you need to get a trans that is set up for the diesel engine. DO NOT put in a gaser 700 and think its going to be perfect.

well #1. get a repaiar manual. its not worth fixing a cracked 400 case.. just get another one. A good used take out 400 is about $200 bucks or so. brakes.. take a look. check out all lines, rubber and hard. check for leeks everywhere. look at rear brakes. and go to step #1

you can get 200HP out a a 6.2 for about 100 bucks. if you get the gearing correct for what you are going to use it for a 6.2 is a stront engine. Now we are not talking a 454 here, but good power with good fuel milage.

there not stretch bolts. you do not need to replace them. If you are doing headgaskets more then once I am betting you did NOT have the heads shaved and the valves reset in the head. Just replacing gaskets is not the way to do it, they will leak again.

yes stock front end parts and seals.

and NO EGR on a J code 6.2

Coolant Temperature Sensor | 1986 Chevrolet K30 1 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders J 6.2L Diesel | AutoZone.com

that one is the the warrning light... the one in the front of the head. There should be a two pin sensor in the rear of the passanger side of the head. That one also controlls the glow plug card. here is the autozone # SU183 for the rear lower right side one. you have the top one already.

there civy parts... take them out and match them up to make sure but there the same as the civy units for a 1983 chevy J code 6.2 diesel. I just replaced them in my pop in laws truck.. I cant seam to find them at the autozone web site, but napa had them. Just take them out and the can match...