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The only way to know for sure if you need shims, is to check(measure) gear engagement clearance. This is covered in the -20TM.

Some members that have had this happen, found they had the wires touching(each other) at the starter. Are you sure your new starter is 24V and the solenoid? If the gear stays engaged(because it is binding) the solenoid cannot disengage(causing starter run-on). Did you check for gear...

Some are and some are not. You will need to look at what you have. You could always connect at the end terminals and extend what you have.

I would resolve your TM issue, once that is fixed you can solve the rest easily.

Nice. I have the nerwer version like this, http://sales.paxpat.com/lincoln-idealarc-250-amp-ac-dc-stick-welder.html They are heavy!

Since you never added a poll to this, I'll just merge it to the tail end of your original thread.

What model truck? I'll guess you have an M939 series truck. That may help you find and use the correct TMs.

Folks, an internet forum is no place to get legal answers.

What was the point of posting this thread? It seems like you already had your mind made up. We want to help you, but your not asking for help. You may have a bad battery, it could be that simple. You need a $10 part and 20 minute fix. You should just change it to 12v, as you have the rest...

I still don't understand why nobody wants to convert to 6 volts. We used it for years and it worked just fine. Never fix something you don't understand, just change it(without knowing how or why).

It was only partially broke before today!

You may simply have a bad battery. Test it.

Well, your truck is mostly 12 volt. You can't charge 2 batteries in series and draw off one(for long).

Maybe a bad ground from the IP cap(solenoid) to engine ground. Or, a bad engine to chassis ground.

All the technical maunals are free to download at the top of the page(main menu bar). To measure the GP ohms, one lead on the blade terminal and the other on the hex portion. wire off for test. If your reading 24v with the wire connected to the GP, your GPs are burned out. Has anyone...

You don't "take" the blue wire anywhere. It stays right where it is now. You ad a wire to the terminal/stud that the blue wire is on. The other side of the pushbutton goes to ground. Ground is the metal part of your dash, or the ground spade lugs under the dash(near the parking brake).

Nope. you need to test each one with an ohm meter. 1-3 ohms is good(wire disconnected). Complete troubleshooting is covered in the -20TM. If they were connected at the time you measured voltage, they should be reading around 12v.(if they are all good).

Rebuild it. regulators go for around 8-20 bucks.

So you read it and you may have missed something. You did not say if you found and read and followed the procedure listed in the -10TM to engage the PTO. (Chapter2, Operating instructions) We need to know this. Here is just a blurb from the TM, TM 9-2320-272-10 2-120 Change 2 Ensure each...

After some staring at the pics, I'm leaning towards it being an M51 dump truck.