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What kind of business? Certainly not mobile dentistry.

How far?

Sounds good to me! Keep us updated. While you wait for it, read the -10 TM. That's the basic operators manual. Ask what you don't understand and we'll all help as much as possible.

In the old days, we would just straiten out a small paper clip and use that. Or, just visually check that there was clearance.

And the rubber lines and fuel pickup.

So, your talking about a slip on cover, and not a recovering "kit"?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?33770-quot-unofficial-use-only-quot

Kool

The O-rings can be replaced without removing the lines from the valve. The primer line can leak too.

Cincy/Nky What state?

Persistence! I try real hard to help, I really do. I get great satisfaction from helping others. Oh yeah, and with some luck too...

It gets complicated to wire in series when the 12v light fixture is grounded by it's mounting hardware.

It's not supposed to be subtle, it's supposed to be alarming. It's an alarm. Your truck does not come close to meeting federal safety standards as it is now. To remove/modify anything that reduces your(and the rest of the world's) safety is simply irresponsible(and foolish).

That sounds like a solenoid failure. The large contactor must have stuck for some reason.

Read this. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?119352-doghead-starter-relay-mod-rebuilt-gear-reduction-starter-run-away

This should help. Notice that the motor contactor is closed/directly connected to the main battery cable, when the gear is "out" or engaged with the ring gear. So, when the gear is jambed into the ring gear, the contactor can't open, the motor keeps running. I said all this in the post above...

I would throughly inspect your starter ring gear for damage, since your saying that you has continued and worsening starter sticking prior.(again, most likely due to lack of proper shimming)

It would "hang" closed, to cause the starter to stay engaged. Improper gear mesh could/would cause this.

You can test your under dash relay by simply doing a voltage test at the starter wire(small one). What your missing is, the under dash relay supplies power to the solenoid. The solenoid moves(engages) the bendix drive AND pulls a large contact in the end of the solenoid together that then...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?99703-24V-Gear-Reduction-Starter-Need-Shim