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Nope, I had to leave the country for three months and when came back I had different priorities on my list, but I often catch myself thinking about it:( Jim I'll send you a PM later...

It’s still lower than what they would ask for a similar truck in Germany. Go and see it, I believe you can lower the price down to 5,5K, tell the guy about the starter, ip rebuild, point to rust areas, etc… show him the cash and if he’s totally adamant, tell him that you’ll buy one for that...

This one? www.Avto.net Looks good, I would pay around 5000 EUR for the truck and the plow. I don’t see what front cover is missing; I suppose you mean torque convertor cover. If it's missing it’s a good sign that someone tampered with the starter/flexplate and it was a chronic problem...

Some of them look good cosmetically, so it depends on how much you want to put in it, once you've purchased it. At the beginning expect around 1000 EUR and it's only beginning. Plan for an IP rebuild down the road as I am still to see one that does not need it (and I've seen many clean...

I replaced all lenses on my 1009 two years ago. Ordered the cheapest lenses from Rockauto, they were perfect fit and they are still as good as new......

I'm using an Android OS phone with the Adobe Reader Mobile. Just crammed all the TMs, pictures, articles and anything else cucv related in one folder on the phone SD card, so it's always with me when I need it. When I got my 1009 two years ago, I would print one section of the TM at the time...

here is the diagram with the locations of the check balls. Use some transgel to keep the balls in place while you're reinstalling the valve body.

Just order #25, that's new oil seal......

I knocked out the glass ball in the return valve two years ago and installed a small fuel filter to catch all "coffee grinds". I made over 15k miles with that setup, 10k on WMO, so definitely the injector clogging was due to WMO. It would be great if some of the guys, who run their trucks on...

Yup, I'd had to remove a couple of injectors to extract swollen GPs and then the injectors looked OK. That was before I started running the truck on WMO mixture. Couple of months into using WMO the truck substantially lost the power, but having had problems with the clogging of IP return valve...

I don't know where the wife got the ultrasonic cleaner, she uses it to clean the jewelry (hope she does not find out I'd used it :-P)...there are some on ebay from $20 upward.... Mixed WMO with red diesel/heating oil approximately 50%/50%, filtered through an old fuel filter. I run the mixture...

I removed and cleaned the injectors. Used a small ultrasonic cleaner, engine degreaser and isopropyl alcohol. I'm delighted with the result, the truck runs much quieter and has noticeably more power. I'll never run it on WMO again. You can see before and after pictures. Also replaced rotting...

Mine is 15 % slower with 33x12.5x15 MT tires. Replaced the speedo cable as the old one snapped, could not find anything that remotely resembled anything like the reduction box.

A piece of thin stainless steel wire with a couple of knots should cut through the glue. Use some soap on the wire to reduce friction... I suppose the military did not use automotive-grade adhesive on the tag.....

Fuel pump or often refered to as fuel lift pump part # 41618 Rockauto.com, it's only $16.71. Of course, there are more expensive alternatives but I ordered this one and it worked just fine.....

while you're there, check the valve body, 1-2 valve and 1-2 piston in rear servo,

It works-guaranteed. I removed quite a few car badges that way. Nail polish remover (non-acetone based) is also great for removing the glue as it does not damage the paint.....but depends on what type of glue the military used, you might need to scrape it.

It' s much easier now that we have a pic... If you wantb to remove it, you'll need some thin fishing line or dental floss.Get your fishing line or floss and slide it behind the plate and use a saw-like motion to remove it. This will cut the glue between the paint and the back of the plate...

take a picture of the serial number and measure its dimensions, than find a sign shop that will make you a stencil/vinyl lettering for the number.... you can use a peace of clear/transparent vinyl and apply it over the serial number just to keep it in place until you decide to paint the truck...

I don't think it's vacum related, but check the modulator anyway... I would check the governor assembly, it might get stuck in the bore and the trans could not up shift...just remove it and see if all parts are moving freely and it has no damage(no stripped splines on the gear and it's not worn...