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I bought the parts to do this upgrade about a year ago but had to stop messing with the truck for a while. When you say you got the switch from LMC, was it this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-D6283D ?
Thanks. I have all the A and B-pillar trim + headliner, so I'm trying to use all factory parts. I'm going to borrow your LED idea though and put one in the base.
I'm going to add the factory dome light to my M1009. Does anyone know if the wiring harness is there in the roof or do I need to source one of those as well?
Thanks.
Yes, that's exactly what it was on mine. Glad to see you reinstated and thanks for your help with mine. FWIW, don't bother with the LMC controls. The hot/cold slider and vent position slider feels cheap. Also the fan switch only worked intermittently. Looks good, but I don't think it will...
I finally got in there today. The switch is bad, a few of the terminals on the backside are cooked and melted. The plug appears to be fine. LMC sells the whole assembly. Will those work with our trucks? It's part # 32-0638 on their website. It looks like the same one in the truck, but I...
I'm only getting current to one position of the plug and only in the high position. I looked under the dash at the switch and didn't see anything obvious. Later this week I've got to pull the bezel and cluster anyway so I'll get a closer look then. Thanks for all the help.
I didn't check resistance, just continuity. The backside looked like different sized stove burners so I thought if the connection still existed they were working. But like I said, I was winging it and haven't messed with one before.
Only the plug failed? How does that happen? Short of physical damage or corrosion, which you wouldn't really expect either with it tucked up in the dash, you'd think the plug would outlast the switch.
I have not. I've started putting together a cluster of gauges to replace the idiot lights and planned to be "in the dash" maybe next weekend so I'll check it then. I'll be the first to admit my test might not have been correct. After looking at the resistor and thinking about it a minute I...
My fan only works in the high position, so I was told it had to be the resistor. I took it out and it was corroded badly but not broken so I cleaned it up and checked continuity. It tested good between all poles so I put it back in. Still no joy. Then looking at the plug I noticed I'm...
That's what I ended up doing. I've got heat damage to that fuse spot. I wish it were easy to replace. My son has asked for this to be his first car and will be 16 soon, so that worries me a little. At least with the relay harness on and the offending horn pieces removed, maybe it won't get...
I have lights again. But the headlight fuse isn't getting good contact from overheating, so I'll cut those horn wires this weekend and hopefully remove the rest of the overload from the circuit. If I take the fuse panel apart can I bend the contacts back so it will grab the fuse good again?
Yessir, test light and multimeter in hand. Trouble is, I'm an older and larger mammal that doesn't understand vehicle electrics so good. If all the wiring were laid out on a table I could probably follow the schematics and figure it out. But getting my head/arms/hands under the dash where I...
I have the LMC harness installed but have not performed the horn vasectomy yet. Still no lights. I'm still planning on snipping the diode and suppressor, but thought I'd have lights at this point. I'm starting to suspect the switch. Any thoughts? Thanks.
I've only done this once when I had to replace my injection pump. I'd read that you could see fuel "misting" out of the glow plug holes when it's primed. I never saw that, but my eyes aren't so good anymore. I just did three or four bursts on the starter lasting maybe a four or five count and...