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I was wondering if anybody had a newer part number for the injector pump fuel shut off solenoid. The numbers I have right now are GM 15577535 GM 14067411 Stanadyne 26214 I can't pull up these numbers in any system and FleaBay gives me mixed results. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ya...sorta figured it would end up being the IP somewhere. Anybody have a part number off hand?

Took some other troubleshooting advice and pulled the pink wire, turned the key on and listed while I plugged the wire back in. Not a really satisfying click. As a matter of fact, I don't think i really heard much at all. How loud should the shutoff solenoid be, or would I be able to feel it...

So here is what I found. I pulled the return line off the IP and it was barely a drip of fuel. Pulled it off the hard return lines and the lines look empty. Even after cranking it the return lines stay empty. I am waiting on a friend to bring his multimeter to make sure the IP is getting 12v...

I will check that tonight. Didnt think about return because it seemed like fuel delivery wasnt an issue. Not sure about jumping timing though. There was no real stress on the motor and not other indicators that i jacked aomething up.

Oh yeah, I also replaced the lift pump and connecting rubber lines last year.

Ok, so the basics out first. 1984 Blazer with the 6.2l, 135k on the odometer. Complete 12v conversion, spin on filter mod, fuel pressure indicator, and the rest is bone stock. 1 year ago I had Badger Diesel rebuild all 8 injectors and the IP. I also replaced all 8 of the glow plugs with brand...

Gotacha...I was going to use 4 inch pipes on both sides.

For me, cold air from the front of the truck as opposed to hot air under the hood. I also want to add a second feeder tube from the other side of the radiator....but the **** radiator is in the way.

Here are the two ideas I am working with, just haven't found the right things to use at home despot...

Change the filter and re-prime the system. If that filter is more than say 6-12 months old it needs to be replaced...especially if it has been sitting. And if you want to check and see if the pump is working just take the fuel inlet line loose where it goes into the filter. You will know within...

I am working on something like that for mine and I got a question which I do not see if you addressed. Since I drive mine at all times I am concerned about driving in the rain and having it get sucked in the tube and through to the filter. I have seen two different ways of addressing this. 1-...

I poked around yesterday looking and figured I would ask here. I think I have a head gasket that has let go, but I REALLY don't want to just take it apart unless I have to. Here is what I have going on. Over the last few months I have noticed a pretty decent loss of coolant. Part attributed to...

Are you still running the automatic GP relay? If so then the truck is cycling the glow plugs on and off until it reads that the engine is warm enough. You could try putting it on a manual setup or disconnecting it after you start it to see if you still get the same voltage drop when you start it.

If you go to any of the megamart auto stores they should have plenty. I picked up about 3 feet of the Viton for my return lines and I am swapping them out this weekend. They generally don't have it on the shelf with the rest of the rubber hose, so just ask the counter guys. If you want to put...

Had two dead batteries this morning from leaving the marker lights on last night. I would have killed somebody I almost liked for one of these at the time. Instead I had to find 2 jump boxes to fire up old Gritty. If you ever actually get something like that working you are gonna make a killing.

That does sound like a mystery. It almost sounds like they burned out a fuse for the lights and instead of fixing it or moving it correctly they tied it directly to another powered source...the glow plug circuit. And if the problem started with the "Red Wire" ... might be a good idea to unplug...

It's possible the PO tried to use a jumper wire to power the headlights much like the standard relay setup would. Which would mean that all the power that would usually flow through the headlight switch and to the lights could have burned out the switch.

Wrap it in tinfoil to shield it from the alternator noise.

X2 on that. The only real problem I had after that was ensuring it was lined up correctly on the shaft before threading it on. I missed the first time and must have knocked it loose but used a little elbow grease the second to motivate the fuel line to stay in place and it worked fine.