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Pics are here.... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?151667-Bought-a-hitch-and-a-winch&p=1845548&highlight=#post1845548 I don't have a way to mount it to the front, but i suppose i could always add a receiver hitch up front. I store it in the bed, i have a receiver hitch bolted to the...

$400 12k harbor freight winch attached to a receiver mount bracket. this mounts into a conventional hitch bracket i bought off the auction site for $60. It bolts up where the pintle is. standalone 12v battery for the winch. I always get stuck nose first, so being able to winch from the rear...

As far as ordering a new starter... do they all share the same starter or do i need one unique to a 6.2? Anyone have a good source? I would rather support our members and vendors.

I have the one piece cover. So it needs to come off? Makes sense because I don't see how else the starter would drop free. Looks like the y pipe has to come out too? I will need a new gasket for the cover I assume.

Seems like if i run a jumper from the big positive post i labelled A, to the solenoid spade i labelled C, the starter should operate (same as shorting S and T on the STE/ICE ?) according to the wiring schematic.

Also. I'm troubleshooting this starter. I can meter 24v between the big posts. I also meter 24v between the big positive post and the spade connectors on the solenoid. Is that normal with the truck off? I was assuming the spade connector on the solenoid should only get juice when cranking...

I've checked the TMs and it basically says remove wiring, remove lower bolts, remove the end bolt and remove with jack. Well i have it loose, but i can't fit it out between the frame rail and the oil pan. I can't get enough of the pinion gear out of the bell housing to begin lowering it, when...

Ok good. thought i was on a list.

Just curious if anyone else got a letter from the defense logistics agency inspector general. My notice is basically making me aware that I cannot export the vehicle per the GP auction and end use certificate. It also says I have to keep records if I sell it. I just find it weird that I'm...

I wouldn't be surprised if that is just the excess RTV they used on the cover when they sealed it.

This stuff has to come out.

if you are doing the output seals, you are going to have to remove the spindle. that entails removing the steering arm cover, removing the spindle nut (you may need a special tool for that depending on what kind of nut you have), then removing the spindle. retorquing the spindle correctly is...

If it's the input seal... I can say that it's 87 times easier to undo the upper ball joint than remove the halfshaft from the diff.

Kascar sells them.

That gear oil, its in the hub. It can leak from the input seal where the halfshaft enters, the output seal where the spindle exits, the plugs, the steering arm cover, or the inspection cover. With that, it is likely from a seal. Where in FL are you?

When that red rubber boot on the forward battery wears out against the battery hold down, you are going to have quite the fireworks show.

Yea there are specific checks in the TM's for different components. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?78861-TM-s-for-the-M998-series

There's freeplay somewhere, you need to find out where before you injure yourself or someone else. I would be looking at everything from the steering wheel, down to the steering gear. Then from there everything from the pitman arm, to the hubs. I would also check upper and lower balljoints...

The full mark on the transmission dipstick is meant for when hot, while the engine is running, after briefly placing the shifter thru each position. When cold yours may seem full because the transmission cooler is draining back perhaps? It's the level when hot that matters though. You could...

there should be a hot and cold mark on the dipstick. there isn't a two quart difference between the two marks though. additionally, the hot level is HIGHER than the cold level, because the fluid expands. not sure why your level is lower when hot, that is peculiar.