What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Mainsail

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The key switch I ordered arrived today- fast shipping too.

I got this switch and this mounting plate. I'll interrupt the neutral cutout line to prevent the vehicle from starting.

They makes two key switches like this, one where the key remains in the lock when switched on, and one that allows the key to removed in either position. I chose the latter.

1655490443421.png
 

SmartDrug

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The key switch I ordered arrived today- fast shipping too.

I got this switch and this mounting plate. I'll interrupt the neutral cutout line to prevent the vehicle from starting.

They makes two key switches like this, one where the key remains in the lock when switched on, and one that allows the key to removed in either position. I chose the latter.

View attachment 870622

Take pics of the process, if you would. I'm going to tackle this next week!
 

Mullaney

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The key switch I ordered arrived today- fast shipping too.

I got this switch and this mounting plate. I'll interrupt the neutral cutout line to prevent the vehicle from starting.

They makes two key switches like this, one where the key remains in the lock when switched on, and one that allows the key to removed in either position. I chose the latter.

View attachment 870622
.
Thinking out loud...

Have you looked with a meter to see what amperage you might be passing through that switch - BEFORE you cut a wire and install this switch? There have been quite a few problems related to "non-factory" start buttons and switches on MV's in general...

Definitely not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to head off future problems...
 

Mainsail

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Take pics of the process, if you would. I'm going to tackle this next week!
I still need to paint them before installing, which will require some nice weather.

.
Thinking out loud...

Have you looked with a meter to see what amperage you might be passing through that switch - BEFORE you cut a wire and install this switch? There have been quite a few problems related to "non-factory" start buttons and switches on MV's in general...

Definitely not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to head off future problems...
I will be checking (currently raining) but I'm pretty sure it's a ground path, not carrying any current. In other words, the shifter in P or N provide a ground path to allow the starter relay to close.

EDIT to add: I won't be cutting any wires :eek:
 
Last edited:

Mogman

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It is carrying the starter solenoid current, it does not go to ground it carries the signal from the run start switch to the solenoid (24V)
Hopefully someone will chime in here that has measured or know the specs for the current is.
Not saying your switch would not work but I would suspect the 5A rating is pushing it.
Please download the TMs and study the schematics.
 

Mainsail

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Milcommoguy

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I was there, poured over that diagram for over an hour now, don't see the neutral switch or wire 14 anywhere in that.
That free print is incomplete missing the last page. Neutral safety switch is in series with the "START" position. Stock military switch at "RUN" is rated at 20 Amp, 30 volts. Start position the same with 70 Amps inductive load.

IMO... and it's free, I would be VERY concern as to the contact ratings and long term use in THIS application for these simple switches (automotive application general replacement 12 VOLT) This Is the reason careful consideration to this "looks like a good idea" and "slap one on" security fixes that will come back and BITE Mr. HumV hard. It is WELL documented throughout the hobby.

Complete and total failure of contacts to make /break...OR welded together unable to shut off circuits IE: engine or worst yet a $700 plus dollar starter.

At Camoteksystems we are in the final design stage to eliminate this ongoing issue, providing a long term and ratings solution for the hobbyist.

Not all switches, switch alike. CAMO CAMOTEKSYSTEMS.com

Here's the data that supports the switch.

5400-pg-new.jpg
 
Last edited:

AAVP7

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Dortmund, Germany
I finally got the original A/C on my body-off restored M997 ambulance running.

When I got the ambulance top, the freon lines were open, and insects had nested in them. Also, the engine-mounted compressor, the hoses and part of the wiring were missing. A very BIG Thank You to fellow Steelsoldier Harleyrdr71 for providing me with an original compressor, and some other parts.

I disassembled the whole A/C system, flushed it thorougly, changed the 35 years old seals on the compressor, and swapped all O-rings for a changeover to R134 (Freon = R12 is very much VERBOTEN overhere for years). The A/C oil was changed to PAG oil compatible with R134.

A few days ago I took the M997 for a first, nicely air-conditioned ride:


The Humvee rightaway started to mark its territory with some condensate water:


Here´s an engine room view with the extra V-belt for the compressor:


Restoring the 35+ years old A/C to running condition was an interesting learning experience for me. In my business, I´m daily working with A/C systems, but when a system is broken, we usually just trash them. Being forced to revive an historic A/C system with all-original parts was something new and exciting.
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

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I finally got the original A/C on my body-off restored M997 ambulance running.

When I got the ambulance top, the freon lines were open, and insects had nested in them. Also, the engine-mounted compressor, the hoses and part of the wiring were missing. A very BIG Thank You to fellow Steelsoldier Harleyrdr71 for providing me with an original compressor, and some other parts.

I disassembled the whole A/C system, flushed it thorougly, changed the 35 years old seals on the compressor, and swapped all O-rings for a changeover to R134 (Freon = R12 is very much VERBOTEN overhere for years). The A/C oil was changed to PAG oil compatible with R134.

A few days ago I took the M997 for a first, nicely air-conditioned ride:


The Humvee rightaway started to mark its territory with some condensate water:


Here´s an engine room view with the extra V-belt for the compressor:


Restoring the 35+ years old A/C to running condition was an interesting learning experience for me. In my business, I´m daily working with A/C systems, but when a system is broken, we usually just trash them. Being forced to revive an historic A/C system with all-original parts was something new and exciting.
.
Very NICE looking ambulance AAVP7 !
You should enter it in the next MV of the Month Contest. The next one starts on July 1st.

Having AC is a plus for sure. Funny how it works. People who work on home cooling are different from vehicle cooling for sure. I mean the concept is the same, but it definitely takes different tools. Glad you could recover what you had and that another SS member could help you locate the missing parts.
 

Mainsail

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Sorry that one was not complete, actually I have never found a decent schematic, they are all crap, try this one.
Far right side
Excellent!

So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current.

I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to mount that too far from the battery box (big wires) and it's a long reach from the driver's seat to the battery box. :LOL: I still want one for when I won't be driving it for a longer period of time.

I considered a hidden toggle, but nothing in my meager collection of aircraft toggle switches seems to up to the task either.

Switches.jpg
 

Mullaney

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Excellent!

So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current.

I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to mount that too far from the battery box (big wires) and it's a long reach from the driver's seat to the battery box. :LOL: I still want one for when I won't be driving it for a longer period of time.

I considered a hidden toggle, but nothing in my meager collection of aircraft toggle switches seems to up to the task either.

View attachment 870686
.
If you go direct to the battery cables - try searching "24v battery disconnect" - and then possibly mount in a somewhat hidden location.
 

MarkM

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Excellent!

So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current.

I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to mount that too far from the battery box (big wires) and it's a long reach from the driver's seat to the battery box. :LOL: I still want one for when I won't be driving it for a longer period of time.

I considered a hidden toggle, but nothing in my meager collection of aircraft toggle switches seems to up to the task either.

View attachment 870686
You have some very nice toggles there.

Mark
 

Gcelevator

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Florida USA
Installed today a keyed kill switch connected to the IP selenoid. Painted it green to match the truck. Key is removable either in the ON or OFF possition.

Removed the rim from my good tire (rim was wiggling) it was so bad that some studs were spinning on the rim. Mounted the new to me tire on a almost new rim and today was able to go for a comfortable ride with no jumping (tested at different speeds)

Installed a glove box for documents (joke)
 

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