What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Mainsail

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Instead of wondering what kind of amperage is running down Wire 14 I decided to find out. I talked to a techno-wienie I know (Technowienie) and he was skeptical about the 14ga wire carrying 70 amps. Also, whatever switch I use, even if the contacts weld themselves together it's not going to cause any drama, because the welded contacts would then be doing what the neutral switch is already doing in Park or Drive.

So here's what I got, 5.25 amps max when starting. Repeated it five times, same result.



Next up was getting the piece of ducting replaced. I really don't know what this does, since even with the fan blowing I didn't feel any air blowing out (or in) the open ducts under the hood. But it's supposed to be there so I ordered a new one. Now I know why they don't replace them, big drama and lots of grief getting that stuffed in there. That took most of the afternoon.



Replaced a missing zeus spring for the doghouse- I found the old one laying on the engine when I got the truck home. Drilled out the rivets and riveted in a new spring.



Last I got the shelf roughed in. I want it to be tool-less but I didn't feel like running out for hardware so I used what I had in the vast stores of collected crap.



So far, this is the collection of stuff I've found inside the truck. The fire extinguisher pin makes me a little nervous...

 

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Milcommoguy

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Instead of wondering what kind of amperage is running down Wire 14 I decided to find out. I talked to a techno-wienie I know (Technowienie) and he was skeptical about the 14ga wire carrying 70 amps. Also, whatever switch I use, even if the contacts weld themselves together it's not going to cause any drama, because the welded contacts would then be doing what the neutral switch is already doing in Park or Drive.

So here's what I got, 5.25 amps max when starting. Repeated it five times, same result.



Next up was getting the piece of ducting replaced. I really don't know what this does, since even with the fan blowing I didn't feel any air blowing out (or in) the open ducts under the hood. But it's supposed to be there so I ordered a new one. Now I know why they don't replace them, big drama and lots of grief getting that stuffed in there. That took most of the afternoon.



Replaced a missing zeus spring for the doghouse- I found the old one laying on the engine when I got the truck home. Drilled out the rivets and riveted in a new spring.



Last I got the shelf roughed in. I want it to be tool-less but I didn't feel like running out for hardware so I used what I had in the vast stores of collected crap.



So far, this is the collection of stuff I've found inside the truck. The fire extinguisher pin makes me a little nervous...

 

Milcommoguy

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YOU are absolutely RIGHT for all the reasons stated & 14ga wire too. The HMMWV "RUN" position is typically about 2 Amps. The "START" position about 6.5 Amps to pull in the solenoid, then the holding winding / contacts do the rest.

The switch I posted and it's rating of 70 inductive Amp is important. The crap, keyed, HMMWV security mods are typically designed for 12 volt, 5 Amp auto replacement and here lies the problem. HUMMWV is 24 Volt so about half... 2.5 Amps at 24 volts in RUN and POOF in START.

When the contacts open up from "START" the solenoid's magnetic field collapses and high voltage spike is generated. This voltage arc / flash to a plasma state / temperatures burns the contacts or welds them closed.

Has long as one is not looking to break the "START" connection under load, most of the switches you showed will be fine. Best to double up on the contacts If it's a DPST type and play it safe.

IMO, your quality secret switch will do the job handling the working load. Could be iffy when switching opening under load. Typically wouldn't do that, because you just did it with the military rated one.

Be safe. Lock it up, switch it off, get a dog, CAMO
 
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HoveringHMMWV

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Finished replacing a leaky engine fuel pump on the M1151A1. Took me two days and included a few choice words, scratched up knuckles, one diesel soaked tshirt and a steep learning curve. But, it started after about 4 attempts with some sputtering before idling smoothly. I would also recommend removing the right hand splash guard for additional access from atop.
 

M1165A1

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New York
Took the HMMWV offroad to the top of a 4 wheel drive trail at about 10,200 feet. The trail was rough - big rocks most of the way, the truck needing a lot of suspension. At times I thought the HMMWV would bottom out. But we made it and it was a blast. This photo was at the last turnaround (had to go on foot to the summit from here or I would have had to back down from the peak).

IMG_0654.jpg
 

Mogman

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Took the HMMWV offroad to the top of a 4 wheel drive trail at about 10,200 feet. The trail was rough - big rocks most of the way, the truck needing a lot of suspension. At times I thought the HMMWV would bottom out. But we made it and it was a blast. This photo was at the last turnaround (had to go on foot to the summit from here or I would have had to back down from the peak).

View attachment 871134
Should have put this in the "out and about" thread but looks like FUN!
 

Mainsail

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Pulled all the chairs out and lifted or removed the matting- all San Yermo mud under there. I started with a putty knife and scraped the mud up, then mowed the front yard. That brief break dried the little bit of mud left, so I vacuumed up as much as I could, then got the hose and a scrub brush to finish it.

I'll need to vacuum again to get the little bit of sand that didn't run out the drains tomorrow when it dries again.

Found this, no idea what it is.

WII.jpg
 

RJTM998

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Take pics of the process, if you would. I'm going to tackle this next week!
Get the keyed fuel shutoff from Black Dog. This leaves your OEM switch in tact. I did mine on a mounting plate I found on Amazon and just put it in where the fording kit valve would go so no drilling a large hole in your dash. Simple, easy. Plug and play.
 

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RJTM998

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I finally found doors but they were tan. I painted them camo to match. Flat black base coat was Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric paint the green and brown was Rapco. Turned out pretty nice.
 

TOBASH

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Got the clean SF97 being sent to me by RWH for my new to me M1165 HMC4 hard top. Getting all the parts ready to get her running. Dual voltage regulator, batteries, home made pushbutton PCB, B-pillars, assorted hoses and power steering pressure hose, brake lines, custom doors, fluids, wiper stalks and wipers, directional signal stalk, fuel filter assembly, cap for the turret, and getting ready to treat rust holes in the top. I have Blue Hummers I bought a million years ago ready to install. (My two other rigs already had them so I had this as a spare set).

I have spare CTIS air pump and manifold, so I might make her a CTIS upgrade in the future.

New windshields are in and new tensioner is in, (thanks RWH).
 
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Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Fording exhaust removed and replaced with a regular pipe
Chairs washed and reinstalled
Took it for a test drive to get a feel for how clean seats and floors feels... :sneaky:

Truck got a LOT of looks. I only went a mile or so down around the lake and back. On the return leg I approached a stop sign where the road T's and :oops: ...uh oh, deputy sheriff! Cross traffic doesn't have a stop sign and he rolled thru and never even looked.

At home I pulled it up on the retaining wall to see how much (more) room that gives be underneath. That's San Yermo in the driveway...

Blocks.jpg
 
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