Recent content by g2065g

~ 2 miles so far this year =) on the red stuff that was in the tank when I got it.

Drove mine for the first time since I bought it! 7months ugg. I finally got everything to where I could drive it and test my mc rebuild. All good for the most part! Bolted my bed down. Ordered some odds n ends.

Use a similar system that AR15.com uses. For classifieds add a bump(xxhours, ie 72, 96 etc), sold, and closed buttons. I don't know if that is part of the forum code that they use(written by them) or if it is possible for this forum to incorporate it but all posting in classifieds there do not...

Will take a look. I appreciate the info. I searched 14 pdf's that have -34 in them relating to the deuce that I have downloaded. I can find a parts blowup but not the internals of the MC. Nothing pertaining to actually rebuilding the MC. I could have missed it. I know how it goes back together...

Thanks. I did several searches tonight and a few days ago. I vaguely recalled someone suggesting to coat them all but could not find it tonight. I searched for about an hour and cannot find a MC rebuild in the TMs either.

Do I need to put brake fluid in the cylinder before sliding the parts in or a coat on them? Or do I assemble it dry and just fill after I reinstall it? I'm sure this is common knowledge to a lot of people but this is my first rebuild. I usually just replace the MC on any other vehicle if it is...

fixed my oil leak I pulled of the line that runs from the block to the IP. It was leaking a fair amount, stead drip. It was about 10 bucks with new fittings, ferrules, inserts and the line. The job was easy but attaching it back into the block side took about 30 minutes just to get the threads...

If I need new ones for some reason I'll try the others. Once I got longer screws it was no biggy. And I will probably get shorter screws than I got. The 1" bottom out and push outward on the bucket a bit. I just left them out a couple turns for now.

That kit is only 18 bucks at NAPA. I will see if I can get one here local and compare sizes. I will post what I find out. The kit is about half the diameter of the m35 cylinder. No go.

This kit looks identical to the m35 kit. Is it the same or just the same parts but different diameter? Trying to find a Part number at NAPA for the m35 so I can try to get one local. Will this work for rebuilding a m35a2 MC?

I wasn't confused really about if it should come out or not. I guess I just meant that the TM says to take the nut off and mark it and all that but the shaft just fell out and there was no need to mark it or take the nut off. Also near the end it has a recessed area that looked like it might...

Wish I read the post about the 1 bolt before I went at it. SONOFA... anyways I got it out with a socket and long extension. A swivel woulda been nice but didn't need it. Also draining the lower portion woulda been a bonus but live and learn I guess. Also whoever installed it didn't put the lock...

Mine was $2800. With tax, license, tools and repairs, so far I'm around 4200 with what I currently know is wrong with the truck. That is w/o mods, upgrades etc. And I still haven't driven it. Hopefully I can get it road worthy for under 5k total.

Thanks for the replies. It will sit a nice long while before moving. I have to rebuild or replace the MC. Bled the brakes, no air, pedal squishy. Pulled back the boot and it was full of fluid. So I will be pulling it today also to see if this will be a $35 or $100 repair. I read the TM on it...

Is this correct? Plan to put it all back together today. I don't have the seals/bearings with me to take a pic and ask so this terrible drawing will have to do. I do not have the cork or rubber insert but I will be using rtv which was explained to me in another post. Thanks in advance.