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How high should the cowl vent raise? When I got the truck, it was stuck closed. Since I am still taking it all apart, I am to the point of removing it. Everything under the dash is removed now so I sprayed PB blaster on the moving parts and as in the picture, this is as far as it goes. I'm...

Got them off I got a small mirrow and put velcrow on the rear of it and the inside of the door. That way i could have both hands free and see what I was doing. Then I got them off by lifting the "lock" on the clip a bit. Before, I just could not see what was back there. I hope they go back...

I agree!!!

I give up. How do you get the clips off the glass regulator so you can lift the door glass out. You can't see them much less get tools in there. I tried moving them with my fingers and a small screw driver but no luck.

Interesting. I went through the parts book and never saw that. Like the note above says, why did anyone care? Must have been an MWO. The parts books for the M-37 leave a lot to be desired. I like the later truck manuals (1968 and onward) that show much more detail and show a picture of...

Still taking the M37 apart. I took off the front fender splash panels and there is weather stripping on them. Don't see the reason or any listing in the parts books so maybe it was added for rattles by someone?

It's sort of the "accessory" lead, but it can't take much current. #85 in some other "M" series trucks comes right off the battery lead. In the M-715, it was used for the heater but again, it came right off the battey lead to a switch.

I will replace with new bolts with just hex heads. The old "tap bolt" heads will go in the junk box. (yes I know, today a tap bolt is something different). I'm not going to knock myself out trying to be "correct" as it means nothing to the value, or a future buyer, some day. I have over 30...

Thanks, I was just going to respond to the "jerry can" comment above. Those holes are above the slot.

Maybe on your trucks, but not on mine. Mine are in 1/8" increments. You measure bolts as "length under the head" and the ones I have measured used my length guage, as used at the boltmaker machine. You can get bolts in 1/4" increments at many Ace Hardware stores but not always in NF.

Taking the front end apart today. What was this slot used for in the right front fender? It is covered by a bolted plate but there are holes under the plate to mount something. It's not on the left side.

More on The Findings As I continue to dissamble the truck, it again surprises me to find the length of many fastners to be odd sizes. Lots of 7/8" long and 1-1/8" and the list goes on. The ones I removed could have been 1/8" longer without any problem and be a standard length. I worked in...

1953 Truck. About 90% will be converted to Packard connectors with those few items dificult to change remaining Douglas.

New Life doesn't do 101 series. just 1/4 ton.

New 99% new. There is nothing that can be re-used as far as wire goes.

Anyone make real canvas tarps for the M-101 series? I have one of the current vinal ones and it just does not look right, on the restored trailer, for the period. In the 60's and 70's we had real canvas on our trucks and trailers.

As we take the truck apart over the winter, the wiring was next. All the old is out and what a sight. It's amazing things worked at all. The insulation crumbled when disturbed. Pictures from yesterday after I was finished removing the last of it. Putting new back in will probably not be as easy...

Thanks Good to know. I have a bag on new ones but not sure how many of each size or what I will need. I'll reuse what isn't rusted by cleaning and painting.

I guess mine aren't as bad as they could be. I only have a few that are severly rusted. I was really surprised yesterday when I removed the rear bumpers. I figured those 5/8" NF bolts would be impossible to remove but all came out without much trouble. There was even plating remaining under...

Not going stainless. My current thinking is to salvage what I can and the rest will be regular hex head cap screws or bolts. I doubt it makes much difference these days if I use the recessed head bolts or regular bolts as far as "stock" goes.