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Are there any new/upgraded/improved parts that can be installed in an IP when rebuilding it?
Or is a rebuild pretty much going to use stock parts albeit new
The pump is new... but I have not "checked" per se. I don't have any drips under the pump in the valley.
Glow plugs are new... manual glow plugs control... but it happens even on hot days and if it sits for an hour after driving it.
I replaced my oem filter with a generic spin on base and filter and installed an electric fuel pump.
I have been having hard start issues if the truck sits for any time.
I moved the pump to the frame rail so I was "pushing" fuel to the filter and IP. This didn't solve the issue.
What I'd...
Honestly, I hadn't thought that far. I am in Afghanistan for the next 11 months and I'm trying to plan out installing A/C when I get back.
My truck has been converted to 12V and as I think about it now, I might pull the power strips off the firewall and put the second batter in the civilian...
I have an 85 M1009 that I put a new Banks Turbo on a few years ago. Now I'd like to put A/C.
Since the factory A/C pump goes on the same side as the turbo (I think), how would one go about installing A/C on a M1009 with a Banks System?
Is there an after market system that mounts to the left...
Turned out that there was an extra o-ring in the pickup tube that goes from the trans filter to the transmission body... the guy claimed that his book called for two but the TM only shows one.
It was sucking air and causing the pump to make the sound... burned out the torque converter and...
I was having an air leak issue in my fuel lines and I though it was because I was pulling the fuel to the front of the truck. So, I put the pump on the frame rail in the middle of the truck so it would push into the filters and IP.
So, now when the tank is 1/4 or lower and it sits over night...
It was a bad two year old battery... Thanks for the help...
While we are here and to avoid starting a new thread... probably a stupid question, but all of the wires that went to the left alt... can they be removed? I'd really like to only have wires that are functional. Seems like the...
I put a meter on the alt...
The BIG red wire gets 14v
The small red from the square plug gets 14v
The black from the square plug gets 14v
With the truck running the batteries show 14v
here are some more photos
So you are saying that when you crack the cap open, it should *NOT* suck air into the tank?
If that is the case... mine is doing that.... and where do we get new caps?
I don't know for sure if the Rosscommon conversion was used as I didn't do it... but after reading it and seeing how my system is laid out it appears that the Rosscommon conversion was used....
I always wondered why there was a bunch of extra wires on the left side of the engine...
I'll get...
I think I am having alt/charging issues.
My 1009 has been converted to 12V and I only have the right alternator.
My batteries are about 2yrs old and I use a solargizer for passive maintenance.
I put an after market volt meter in and it read about 14V fro a long time.... now it is pegged above...
In order of importance....
New Banks turbo kit, new IP, electric fuel pump, rebuilt tranny, new aluminum radiator, tranny cooler, 20mm ammo can center console, spin-on fuel filter, all new u-joints, net upper and lower ball-joints, WVO system.
I moved the fuel pump to the frame rail on the passenger side where the steel line goes from inside the frame to outside.
I turned on the pump and could see the pump pushing fuel and air (since I opened the line to put the pump in). I started it and it ran and died as usual but then I only...
Is it better to push or pull the fuel through the filter
e.g lift pump sits between the filter and the IP pulling through the filter and pushing to the IP
or
the lift pump sits between the tank and the filter pushing to the filter and IP