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I put new rubber lines and the none cutting style clamps from the filter to the pump to the IP. A clogged line... I don't think that is it. Same thing this morning. The pump works. I can hear it thumping and when I open the line right before the IP fuel flows out. I took that screen out of...

After getting it started this morning and driving 3 miles to work it sat all day on a flat surface.... got in after work and had the same issue... it starts and then runs dry and then I have to crank it forever to get the air out. The IP is new so I would think the return ball valve is good but...

I do but only after it starts and uses the fuel in the line and dies... I am going to replace the rubber lines again and use injection hose clamps and see if that helps

Yes I have an electric fuel pump I don't understand what you mean. Air is getting to the IP or just before it. So it will start and run for 20 or 30 seconds and then starves and dies... Then I have to crank it to pump the air out

Some how I am getting air into my fuel system. I am having a horrible time fixing it. Usually it happens when the truck sits for a few hours and on a slope... but it happens on flats occasionally and this morning it happened after idling for 20 minutes and then about 2 miles down the road it...

there are a couple of 2 pin receptacles on ebay now for $25 plus shipping

What would you charge to build another set of girdles ?

6 = yes

1, 2, 3 = Yes

Why not... maybe I'm missing something. Isn't the slave receptacle attached directly to the batteries? Wouldn't that be the same as clamping on some civiy style jumpers to the battery?

Sorry, should have mentioned that. The M1009 is 12v

I have a M1009 and a 2000 diesel chevy van I'd like to put a slave receptacle on the van and build a slave cable to jump between the two ... I usually have to jump them once or twice on the coldest days. Then I'd like to build an adapter for the slave cables to go to regular jumper clamps...

Is it the original heater core? If so, is it hot? If it is hot then check the flap door... the heater core is always on... there is no valve in this core. The door/vent regulates the temp. If it is a new aluminum core that is a bit thinner... take it back and get a copper one. I went through...

I don't remember... I have a spin-on filter in the same location as the OEM and it seems to me that it isn't in the way.

About 2 hours... maybe. Clamp your lines and then remove them. Pull the glove box out. "Disco-necked" the heater cables Un-bolt the heater box from the engine side of the firewall and there is one or two screws on the inside side if the firewall... pull it out, replace the core and re-install...

Looks like this system will NOT work with a Banks turbo installed... right? Or are there instructions for mounting the compressor on the let side as well?

Good thought but I had the tank out when the filter sock clogged... My tank was immaculate. No rust or corrosion. I put new rubber lines from the tank to the hard line. Plus, my one way valve is up front at the front end of the hard line so that would stop any siphoning

Definitely air in the system.. Mine is does the same thing.

I have an air leak somewhere in my system. Every time I let the truck sit for a few hours it starts then runs for about 20 seconds and dies. I have to crank it for about 20 seconds to get the air out. I put a one-way valve in my fuel line right after the hard line that comes forward from...

I might be taking a job overseas and I'll need to prep my truck for storage. Can you guys give me some pointers as to long term storage of an M1009? Thanks