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I got my parts from O'Reilly's. Cost... don't remember. Not too bad. Time??? it took all day... because I didn't have the socket for the castle nut and I also did the u-joint on that side. You should too. The part is under $20 and you have everything apart anyway. I also did the brakes...

That is a great job!!! Any painters in the Kansas City area? I am looking for a single color paint job using the Sherwin Williams CARC in aircraft black

I got them apart with a brass punch. I thought about turning them, but that can be a bit more work too... especially if they get shavings in the bearing area and/or ruin the seal. plus it would be two more trips to the parts store. Not sure of the quality of the new rotors but they seem...

Really?? TM 9-2320-289-34 6-12. STEERING KNUCKLE, ARM, AND BALL JOINT MAINTENANCE (M1009). Need a socket to get the castle nut off It is 34MM Got it removed

Anyone know what size the castle nuts are that hold the ball joints? I have every size except that one and I'd like to buy the correct size and I can't find my caliper.

Repair manual??? You'd think the TM would mention it... as detailed as it is.

How do I get the front rotors off the hub? I pulled every thing off the spindle and looked at the TM but it really doesn't shay/show how to get the rotor off. Mine seems to be press onto the hub has the lugs going through it. Help

Thanks... that is what I was thinking. Any thoughts on brands (who to buy the gears from)

I'd like to change my gearing in my M1009. I want to be able to cruise on the highway and be able to tow a decently loaded small trailer. It is my understanding that I currently have the stock 3.08 gears. So, given that (from what I can find) the redline of the 6.2 is 3600 rpm Would I be...

I almost bought from these guys Turbo 400, TH400 Transmission, Remanufactured, 4x4, Heavy Duty, 4WD, - Rebuilt Transmission GM Transmissions Turbo 400, TH400 Heavy Duty - Monster Transmission & Performance | 800-708-0087 | Fast FREE Shipping!

OUCH! My guy charged $600 w(with R&R) and I supplied the parts... the rebuild kit is only about $130 with the steel parts i had another local shop quot $950 (with R&R) I have seen rebuilt TH400s for sale from $1100 on the net.

So let's not do anything...? meh... that clutch is so weak. I broke a brand new one in a matter of weeks... I went and got one from a wrecking yard that has lasted a very long time. My window is in great shape and slides smoothly... The new stuff that people are buying is crap and the OEM...

Seeing that the weak part of the tailgate crank is the new pot-metal clutches that are being sold by LMC and the like, I had a thought. How many M1009 owners would be interested in a crank clutch if it was machined out of billet aluminum? #24 in this image...

It had a bit of "glue/sealer" on the inside when it came out. It looks to be crimped in. The flat plate goes in and the metal of the yoke gets crimped down over it. that is why I thought of a weld bead... can't really crimp it. JB weld isn't a bad idea but I wonder if the vibration and...

I replaced my yoke about a year ago because the original one was rusted and th rear seal on the transfer case hardened and cut through the rust leaving a cut in the yoke where it would leak. So a few days ago I noticed tranny fluid on my driveway... Turns out that the rear plug on the yoke came...

I am going to be painting my CUCV and I'd like to use the color on the UH-60... http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/UH-60_Blackhawk_%282164820126%29.jpg Does anyone know what that color code is? Thanks

There is a body for sale in the Kansas City Craig's list. Been there for a while.

I installed my new banks kit back in July 09 and I got rid of the mechanical pump... good luck changing it when it dies with the turbo installed. I went with the walbro FRB-5 Great pump and if you go WVO it works well. If you are still 24v you could go with the FRB-2.

yup. makes sense now

If the stock front diff on an M1009 is open, why does it seem to bind a bit when on dry pavement or in tight turns?