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Plunger worked just as you mentioned. There is some slight discoloration that matches the holes in the head so I think I will continue to have problems. After further investigation, I finally found a post where someone found the part number from AMBAC: GU404360 and costs about 8 bucks. One...

After hours of searching, I still don't know what to call the rascal. Nevermind that when I go to Ambac, they have no prices and only parts numbers which I can't cross reference. Are we whining yet?

Wow, that stinks. Why can't I just remove the clip and use a new one? The plunger appears to be in good condition and it's just the clip that's bent. Thanks for the advice!

No, you don't have to remove it to remove the HH. They are often EXTREMELY tight. It's a metal on metal seal so they have to get snugged really tight to seal. I recommend a 1/2" drive ratchet. A Craftsman 3/8" might experience catastrophic failure. Another personal experience tells me so.

It might still run (especially if you shoot some starting juice in the intake) but it will blow gray smoke and not idle. Spoken from experience from my first IP replacement when not reading the TM closely enough.

I bought 5 non-runners and after finding 3 hydraulic heads defunct. Unfortunately, with 2 of the HHs, the plunger got damaged on removal. They were that stuck. But on the 3rd one, here is what I found. Now, the magic question is where I get a spare clip?

(Chanting) Pictures! Pictures! Pictures!

Here in Texas, if you have air brakes you still need a Class B license for an RV or farm vehicle. Same basic requirements as a class B CDL and since I want to haul trailers it's Class A CDL in my future. Thanks for the good info!

Great ideas. Look forward to the Pics. Speaking of CDL, I'm studying for mine right now. I have to have a different class of license regardless since it's GVW is over 26k. Since I don't want to tag it Farm (I do have such an operation), I will need to go CDL. If I'm going that far, might as...

That's what I'm talking about. Would love to see more pics of the inside if you're willing to share them. Also, have you considered dicing up your bed instead of using the M105 bed? The length of the bed looks great but the wheel well has me turning my head sideways. :grin: Just curious how...

Drove an M923 5 blocks yesterday and was hooked. Those MV/Ts make it feel like a whole different class of truck than I imagined (after playing with a Deuce for 3 years). I want to build one a crew cab. Now I have to get a CDL :cookoo: I feel like an evil redneck scientist. Gotta run, I...

Well, it took me almost 3 years, but I finally got a couple more ponies for my string. Well, 1 and 3/4 more anyhow. The stripped truck has a whistler on it that seems tight. The full truck looks to have a stuck plunger in the IP so it looks like it's time to disassemble and rectify. After...

Excellent info. this encourages me to dig a little deeper for any hints of an original color!

Great feedback folks. Some good ideas I hadn't considered. It would be cool if there were some "deployment colors" but I'm pretty sure it never left US soil, looking at the service records that came with it. I think I like the idea of "Original". I'll do some wide area sanding and maybe I...

Name your poison Fellas. I have an 1987 air force Deuce that has a really sad desert tan paint job. I think those air force boys painted it with mops and push brooms. I've sanded down the runs, bad spots and cleaned up the little bit of surface rust and it's ready for a new coat of...

I recently installed a new injector pump and it was mistimed which resulted in a brownish heavy smoke.

If you have blown seals, don't forget to check the vent on the diff. They get plugged up and blow your seals once the diff heats and the air/fluid heats up and expands from driving. It's a tiny thing about 3/8" in diameter.

Let's not forget...[thumbzup]Nothing else sounds like a deuce!

Man what a beautiful hunk o' steel.

Welcome to the jungle!