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Does anyone have a spare crossover tube? The one that the thermostat sits in? When changing my thermostat a few months ago I broke off the bolts and had to drill out the bolts... Now the thermostat housing will not line up and i can never get the cooling system up to pressure. I have tried...

Ok, I changed my tranny fluid and filter. The TM says it takeds4 qts to fill... well after adding 4 qts running it until the tranny was hot and checking the stick didn't read anything. I added a qt making it 5 total and now it read just at the tip of the stick... Do I just keep adding until...

I got it... in case anyone wants to know without flipping thru the TM the TOP line on the tranny is the RETURN and the BOTTOM is the SUPPLY and if you follow the lines in the image it is the same on the cooler side. TOP = RETURN BOTTOM = SUPPLY TM 9-2320-289-34 Page 378 5-4 TRANSMISSION OIL...

I just changed my tranny fluid and filter. I also bought a flat plate style cooler from the local tranny wholesale supplier. I got the cooler mounted and ready to splice into the lines. I am going to run it in series. I tried the "let it run and feel which line is hotter" I can't tell...

I tried to paint the aluminum frame but it didn't take. Prolly because I didn't sand it... and I didn't want to spend the time doing that....it takes a bit of getting used to... and well worth it.

I think, and they guy said the same thing, that the shell on the blazer didn't change from the late 70's to the early 90's.... but don't quote me.

I found them on craig's list. Paid $100. The guy thought they were after market tinted... They were easy to install after guys on the list helped me realize that there is a "lock" band that is in the main window gasket that needs to be removed so the window can go in. Even if they weren't...

I picked up a set of factory tinted sliders and installed them last week... Very Nice.. Definitely worth the time and money.

I got the truck that way so I'll prolly need to soak it with some sort of penetrating oil for a week or so first.

To do what? Weld on an new piece of threaded stud to the piece that broke off in the block?

Get in it a drive it and save your money and time... I don't think you need any of that stuff. Mine is a daily as is... in fact, mine doesn't even have the floor mat and I love it.

I finally got around to installing the front starter brace only to find that the previous bolt had broken off and is still in the block. What have you guys done to get that sucker out? I thought about grinding the block down slightly to get to the bolt and making it flat also so I could get...

never mind... i found it.

Where are you getting these complete axles for that price?

Wouldn't the supply line be the top and the return be the bottom on the radiator? That would make sense because if the level got slightly low and the return was on the top then it cold suck air.... (hmmm... maybe... ) and it would be pulling the hottest oil from the top back to the tranny.

I got it at a NAPA store... not sure of the model. It is on the right side of the van. Will it still need modification? I currently only have on alt on my m1009 and it is on the right side and the truck is 12v only. If it is a direct swap or small mod I'd like to keep it for a spare. Thanks

Will a civi alternator work? I have a diesel van (1987 6.2 Chevy)that I am scrapping and I put on a new alternator about a year ago... can I use this on my M1009?

I called their court and I can file by mail. Yes, I will travel there when the case is heard and I am fine with that. I drive on WVO so my fuel costs will be low ... just a day off of work. Hopefully he will send me the parts or money when he is served.

I went to your link but I'm not sure what you are trying to tell me.

I have thought about that but I am in KC and it is a 4.5 hr drive.. .. I even emailed him telling him I would drive out there.... nothing.