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Thanks so much for the help with this gentleman. I have a short day tomorrow and will be free after 12. That gives my the afternoon to tear into it. I'll be studying the wiring diagrams and printing off as much useful and relevant info from the tm's to have with me tomorrow.
At this point there...
Glow plug resistor bank wire is there. Far right. Hard to see b/c the fuel filter. No shims. Didn't check spacing. Rebuilder told me it was bench tested and good to go.
I've got a volt meter however am not at all well rehearsed with electronic diagnostics. I'm dreading having to get up under...
That's the doghead all wired up.
Only other wires that I patched were the one leading down to the solenoid (it had household twist connections holding it together) and few for some accessories
Well crap. Starter with new solenoid installed. Everything wired up put all together and ready to go. The very second I start attaching battery terminals the starting starts cranking. What gives?
Always the chance the after market "doghead " relay is a dud right out of the box.
Read and understood. After cutting away all the patch jobs on the frayed wire it appears what's left of the factory wire is actually 12 gauge. The 20 gauge link I cut out reduces down to a much smaller gauge before looping onto the power bank on the firewall. If a fusible link can't be found...
I've replaced all the make shift patch job wiring I could find
Doghead is all wired up
installed nice new brass terminals for the batteries (which are fully charged).
Should have the starter tomorrow. Let ya know how it goes
Thanks. Smart phone won't load the TM's at the moment. Makes it hard to even figure out what that frayed wire was or if could have been the cause of low voltage at the starter solenoid
I'm thinking my initial issue was the fraying wire at the power bank on the firewall. It's been patched multiple times by previous owner so I wanna go ahead and replace it. It appears to be 16 gauge and has a link with "20" on it. Wire came apart at the link. Recommendations on gauge and...
Well solenoid is cooked. Plunger must have welded the contacts from low voltage. At least that's what the forums and my rebuilder are telling me. Guy says he will have the parts and be done with it tomorrow by 11.
Now to address the voltage.
. Yes. Sorry I was referring to the under dash relay having any relation or control over the solenoid.
Ive bookmarked a few other threads on this same subject and am on my over to the truck to see what I can do. Time is limited and I am a bit anxious. Was really hoping to be bringing the m1009...
Will do. Initial problem was no start, no engagement, just relay click. Was attempting to fix that when second relay was put in. After doing so and having same problem I found frayed wire. Once patched and original relay re installed other issues arose. It is entirely possible I had had a run on...
Pulled the M1009 in the shop to load up some things. Went to start it up to pull out. Nothing but a click from the relay. Happened to have a spare starter relay in the glove box. Popped it in. Nothing.
Inspected wiring and found a wire on the power block nearly totally frayed. Patched the wire...
It seems to me that there is no conclusive "hit or fit" guide out there for those of us with the 1009. I've seen everything from 33x10.50's (what I run) to 33x12.50's, even the occasional 35x12.50 fiting on a totally stock suspension. I suppose it all depends on how tired and saggy your springs...
I could see that.
Yeah, not gonna lie. I was hesitant going in. Last thing I want to do is hurt my rig. I could easily see a civic etc. getting torn to heck while being yanked out my truck, or anything heavy with decent tires on it.