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Occasionally artic kit parts come up for auctiion on ebay, do a google search for cucv parts and start contacting surplus dealers. The kit (a LARGE pallet box) were commun a couple of years back and most from surplus in Canada. You still find individual parts. In 2004, $123 for the NOS floor...

Look for one of the Artic kits insulator and sound deadener for the cabin floor, made a big difference in noise level.

Way to go!! Now do you have any of your Red truck?

If you don't feel like reading any of the many articles about this modification, Do a search in youtube, "6.2 or 6.5 turbo diesel" and you should find, from the original "Motor-Week" report back in the 80's, about the Bank's turbo set up to a highly modified, white short bed, making over...

I forget the number(s), but if you decode the VIN, you can tell what they are.

IMO to collect or restore, I would prefer the M1028A1, A3 or the rare M1031 ( pick-up conversion with the dually Dana70 rear axle and some with 200 amp alternator) their NP205 cast iron gear to gear and PTO capability, higher rear axle rating and the front slip locker. Otherwise a LOW miles and...

Now, I'm in Dover. That M35, just South of Frederica is for sale, They gat it in the spring to Bobed it, but now want a M35A3. It look correct low miles & hours, no ovious damage or rust, soft top and If I recall a winch.

Congratulations! Looks like you have found a good one...

Westeck is probably right. But for ALL is worth...Today I fix a problem that I had had this past week with eratic shifting; not wanting to hold high gear and downshifting during normal easy asseleration or at at higher speeds, 30-50 MPH. The square Rubber hose connector on the side of the...

Thanks, army_nurse That is such a cool truck! Back in March 2, 2010, I ask in a tread "Any one knows of a M35 bed on a CUCV" ( I didn't know the difference with a M101 bed) for oppinions and ideas about doing something like this, with the drop sides or a modified Flat Bed. My idea is on hold...

They are glued to the inside the wheel near the center and are made by 3M's, as in Scotch tape 3M's. Maybe other companys as well

DITTO, that mechanical pump is not worth the time and effort ( I replace mine when I purchase the m1008, oil was leakink out and no amount of tightening would stop it, probably a bad diaphram) Just replace it with an electrical pump and a easy to get to line prefilter somewhere in the right...

I suppose it could have fallen down. You said you ran it before finding out about the 2 broken GP's. I don't know if it is always the case, but in a older tread some one said that the sound was unmistakably bad when hi broke the GP tip and he started it like that. He was lucky and found no...

They are the old (wagon) steel wheels, some brands have spokes, some round holes and some have imitation rock rings. they are ALL about the same unless you are going to trash then and need to buy the Heavy Guage steel. I could not find the tread but someone recently posted they paid about...

As other have mention...At $1000-$1200 you are on the high side of what used H1 wheels sell for, specialy the 8 bolt with the 36" tire. If you stay under 33"(or its metric equivalent) you can install much better tires for less then that. And for a bit more you can also install a new set...

the glow plug tip chamber is very small (little more then one sq. inch maybe two) if the broken G.P. tip is in there (you shoul be able to see it) The broken tip may have curve will beign pull out, that may be why if in there, it will not vacum out. Insert a pig tail made out of mechanic...

The H1 tires are infirior to todays ON or OFF ROAD tires, not to mention the bad Quality Control, a mayor problem with the 36" bias-ply. On the possitive side they are adecuate, price right and they look purposefull built on this trucks. The H1 wheels do have a great advantage in that ones...

I have used Delco AC13g GP made in Italy and Mexico, The self regulated Delco AC60g used to be made in Germany by Buru

The entire door is pretty easy to take apart and reassemble, the one exception is the two piece vent window seal, is a PITA to do, after you remove (drill out) the rivet you can replace it with a small fine tread screw, graphite washers and a locking nut. Is also a Good time to clean debris...

Look Right! I never heard of drive shaft issues with less then 6" lift kits, if the right * shims are used maybe the front shafts where wrong to start with? If you most replace, Check out "Tom Woods" and "High Angle" drive shafts websites for great info and OEM alternatives