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well, It was a reman and you are right... I remember seeing that... but I guess I didn't think twice about it. Why are shims no longer needed?

I think I found out why I killed my starter...when I park in the part of my driveway that is sloped I have to crank the engine an excessive amount in the morning then I get a high rev start then it dies... then more cranking with the pedal floored... then it starts. So, my question is... why...

Ok, I took the old starter out... took it down to NAPA and they tested it... BAD, bad starter! I'm glad the dealership that put it in used lifetime warranty parts from NAPA. So now I'm putting in the new one... Question... the old starter had two shims... 040 and 020... can I assume that...

RE: Re: RE: Starter? Batteries? I smacked it with a screw driver handle and had the wife turn the key... I got one good slam from the solenoid. Nothing else. I tried it again and got nothing. The starter was put in new from NAPA eleven months ago. I'm going to call and see what their...

Re: RE: Starter? Batteries? Yes, I'm on 12v. I found that relay in the manual and I replaced it according to a post I found saying it was the most important thing to know... problem still exists. Tapping the solenoid/starter and jumping it was my next step. BRB...

I have a problem this morning... My wife went out to take the kids to school and tried to start the truck (M1009). Well it turned over a few times and then turned like the batteries were dying. So I tried to jump it with my civy diesel van... no luck. I put it on a charger for about an hour...

I did not try that. I will on my way home this afternoon. One thought though...(huh, one letter and a totally different word) anyway... When I push the pedal down enough to kick it down... the kick down works... That would seem to indicate that is is functioning as it should... I am new to...

Ok, so I put new vacuum hoses on it last night and I drove it this morning and it seems to shift smoother but the shift points are still high 1st to 2nd = about 25 2nd to 3rd = about 40-45 So, now I will print out 3-21 and 3-21.1 and adjust the shifting points.

I changed the hoses... they were very cracked and rubbery... some were hard. We will see how that changes things tomorrow morning. As far as the manuals... thanks. I keep for getting to use them. I even have them on my server.

First question... does the M1009 have a TH-350? Mine doesn't have an over-drive like my 87 van and I thought the over-drive meant TH-400. Second question... What is a good shifting pattern on an medium pedal... not flooring it or trying to race off the line? The reason I ask is, if I...

Well, in case anyone is interested... I made a mock tank from poster board. It might be useful to anyone wanting to build an auxiliary tank for WVO or diesel... I'm not sure I'd want gasoline in my cab.... anyway... here is the link...

I tried but... Your account has been activated but you are currently in the moderation queue to be added to the forum. oh well... So, anyone in Seattle?

Thanks, but I don't go to that site enough to warrant a $25 membership.

were you able to take any pictures of the tank?

I don't know where I got that... been a long time... maybe home depot or Sears. I am an OK welder with steel. The tank will be made of aluminum and I don't think I can do that.

Is there anyone with a M1009 that lives in the Seattle area that could do me a favor? I am having a custome tank built for my WVO system. Frybrid.com is doing the work. I need someone to drive their M1009 down to Frybrid and let them take measurements. I have done what I can but I am not...

Yepper... that was it... now i jut have to put it back together. Wish me luck

Anyone know the exact way to get the factory ujoints out of the REAR driveshaft? The new joints come with c-clips but I don't see any on the factory ujoints. I am replacing my slip yoke and I do see small plastic nubs on the outside of where the ujoint sits... ...maybe a factory thing to...

I have the M1009

Well, I got one... http://tinyurl.com/38njbn nice price too.