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Don't quote me on this, but I don't think it is possible to run the stock swaybar with crossover. They kind of occupy the same space. There are all sorts of things I like better about crossover, but one of the biggest things is that it steers straight under emergency braking (this gets even...

I'd say I have to agree to disagree Obijuank5 about hydro Assist or a panhard bar. I agree on the caster, that is critical. Those things in my leaf packs are not shims, they are the ORD offset plates to move my axle forward a bit. A couple of the pics are with a front tire 36" off the ground...

I had the made in India Superlift 2.5" springs on the front of my rig for just shy of three years. Lots of flex, lots of sag, at the end I was back at stock height. I ended up swapping them out for some Tuff Country EZ ride ones. They are a good value. Will it fit? That depends. ORD...

Sounds like your driveshaft angles are right, hopefully the tailshaft bushing replacement fixes it. Do you run one of the transfer case support bars that run from the passenger side of the case to the bell housing?

Do you have a CV at the transfer case?

A 4" shackle flip tilts your pinion up about 8 degrees. Personally if I had a M1009 with a 4" shackle flip I would put a CV at the transfer case end of the driveshaft and shim the axle so the pinion aims at the transfer case.

We need to get you a CUCV magic 8 ball. What are your driveshaft angles like? What is your lift. Are you sure it is driveshaft ?

I run 4.88's with 37" tires, it is a perfect combo for me and the terrain I drive on. With 34" tires I would probably go with 4.56, but I live in a mountainous area. With your 700R4 your builder probably has his own recipe... But if you are looking for parts suggestions I would go with a...

What size tires you going for?

Cheaper to swap the input in the NP208. You can buy a new 27 spline input for under $100... or get a use one much cheaper.

Pretty sure the answer is no. Parking brake cables have different part numbers on Rock Auto for the 14 bolt and 10 bolt axles.

Yes, there are three on each fork... but you never know what you will find wrong till you open it up. I pulled one apart today that came out of a 60,000 mile CUCV that never saw the road after it was auctioned. It was missing the brass syncro (for lack of a better description) had one really...

Started rebuilding another NP208 to put under my rig. The old one decided to spring a pretty good leak out of the front output seal.

So the caps are slipping in the yoke? Does the yoke still have the cast in tabs that retain the caps? The pinion preload on the 14 bolt is set with a crush sleeve, so if you do decide to replace the yoke read up on it before you start. The last thing you want to do is to attack the job with...

That is my hose mount. I used a pair of these to support the hoses to keep the strain off the fittings.

Few more pics. Lifted up one side at a time to check how everything fits together. Pretty happy with it.

You have some better pictures of the mystery front axle in the one with white wheels?

Got it... and got it installed. Was glad to have lots of good quality clamps and some pry bars. Took a little bit to squeeze the frame to match up with the new crossmember. Design and quality from ORD was spot on. Waiting 3 business days for them to ship an off the shelf item wasn't ideal...

30mm/25.4=1.181"... only about six thousandths of an inch away from 1 3/16" A good thin wall 1 3/16" socket is good for a couple other uses. It is the right size for the pinion nut on the Dana 60 front (why it needs to be thin wall... not impact), and it is also correct for the pitman arm nut...

With that tire size I think the H2 wheels would be a good choice. You will most likely have to do some front fender trimming.