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Yep, that method works. Be prepared for a quart of atf to spill out of the torque converter the second you separate it.

Is the drivers side toast? If so my sideyard has a present for you. I hadn't tossed it after all. You pay shipping and send me something random (but non perishable) you don't need valued at $20 or less. Doh! Just realized that I found the backing plate about an hour late!

Hillbilly wizard will have you covered, or your local self service wrecking yard. I had some in my side yard for years, but they went to scrap heaven.

Have someone check your alignment (or do it yourself). An "oversteer" like feeling when you give it a little input or the road crown changes could be a sign of incorrect toe in. Get someone to sit in the drivers seat and rock the steering wheel left to right while you check everything out...

This is what I did, it is a pretty close swap. I had to redo a couple lines if I recall. Wilwood 260-11179

Sorry about the bad info on the C&C spring perches. For some reason I thought they were 36" on center. Sounds like you will be good to go as long as you make room for the inner dual!

Talk to Recovry4x4, he stated in a post above that he shoehorned a C&C axle in a pickup. I wouldn't run spacers, but if you can make that C&C axle work it would be neat since it would narrow up the ride a bit. I do know for sure that you would have to weld diffrent spring perches on it. That...

Take some pictures. I would not run it, sounds like a cab and chassis axle. Is it about 63.5" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface?

Wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface (WMS-WMS or Hub-Hub, all the same). 72"

Shouldn't be that insane. Front axle is a cake walk, the rear will require a swap. The front GM kingpin Dana 60 is identical spindle to spindle for DRW and SRW applications. You would just need to find a set of DRW hubs and rotors and slap them on (the rotors are idential, except for the...

At least the good news is that your local self service wrecking yard should have a tie rod for you since there is about a zillion gm 10 bolt front axles out there.

DOH! Those part numbers are for a Dana 60. Null and void for your ride. As far as the Moog stuff goes, it seems to work well for me. Clearly the sensible thing to do is to use the bent tie rod as an excuse to do your axle swap.

If it is heating because of slipping clutches and wear a cooler won't fix it... but I have one on my 9,000 mile old 700R4 just in case. 2nd on the fire extinguisher. I had an F-350 on fire one time when it barfed onto the hot catalytic converter when running it really hard. Looked like a drip...

That would be a tie rod. The tie rod ties the left to the right wheel. The drag link ties the pitman to the steering arm. Moog part numbers below, can be had from Rock Auto for a very reasonable price. MOOGDS905 MOOG ES2011R MOOG ES2012S EDIT! ABOVE PART NUMBERS ARE FOR A DANA 60... Not...

Bent your drag link or your tie rod?

I don't think anyone makes a kit. The caliper would be trying to occupy the same space as the casting on the front of the knuckle for the tie rod. One caliper can get that rotor plenty hot, if I needed more brakes for towing I would be looking at upgrading all the trailer axles to brakes...

What do you mean by "RPM goes through the roof" Is it a really high idle? Is it running all the way up to full governered speed? Is it running faster than governered speed? How do you shut it off?

Bilstein 5125's. (The one size fits all ORD front ones and 11" travel rears) With one ton axles and big tires you have a huge amount of unsprung weight. I went with the shocks because I use my rig to commute in the winter, and about half of my drive is freeway travel. The Bilstein shocks...

Might think about longer front shocks too. I got rid of the stock mount and bolted on a cut down F350 mount. Makes a pretty big difference in how much you can articulate. ORD has the setup. I am running about 3" of lift.

They would fit and work, but the ratio would be incorrect unless you are running stock sized tires. Wild guess is that the 1008 would have the other model of driven gear holder with a different offset. You have to use the right holder based off what tooth count driven gear you use. The higer...