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Also, you might want to check the batt. cables and batt ground cable.

The relay should be a 12v triggering the 24v. If you use relays rated for 12v you might have arcing in the relay which might be spot welding the contacts.

Were those relays 12v or 24v?

Congratulations! Nice looking truck.

IRWFO- I have a new card in my M1028 also and don't hear it cycle or see the voltmeter move until after it runs a little. It works fine though.

On the M1008 you'd be good with stock gears but probably not enough power from the 6.2 for mudding. If you get a M1028 or M1031 you will benefit from a limited slip up front.

The m1008 can go large. Some units ran 36"-37" in the military. The M1009, in my opinion you'd be safest with stock because the gear ratio is only 3.08 and you have the gov-lock in the rear.

The low coolant light is on the speedometer. I believe the sender unit is on the radiator tanks but I can't remember which side. Just look for wires on the radiator tanks.

I was walking through Wally world and saw some lights that would work great for your emergency flashers, they are red leds for trailers and looks like it just might fit in the bo light holes. The bo lights are 12v so this should be an easy wire in.

If one side is dim check your wiring and grounds, most likely a poor ground.

I've taken the BO lights apart and replaced one of the rears with leds. It is not easy the hard part is removing the back to get to the solder points because the backing is an epoxy and I had to break it apart. You will find the 4 red led's are on one circuit and the yellow is on it's own. I...

I had a M1008 weighed in at 5400 also. Just enough fuel to get there and to the nearest fuel station, no spare, no tie downs or pintle, no brush guard, no tail gate and cab empty of all non-essentials. If you have two small batts you can do that too.

Someone might want to move this thread to the right category

Check all your electrical connections at the starter. You may have knocked the starter wire loose.

Yes, one goes off to the passenger side while the other goes to the drivers Alt. Disconnect the one going to the passenger side. Are you running a dual 12v or a single 12v system?

If the wires you are talking about are connected together itsupplies 12V to the 12V components from the driver alt. and 12v to the pasenger Alt ground stud.

The hardest part of running a dual system was mounting the third batt for the winch.

Sorry to here it broke. It is actually a 12V meter and the resistor is used to step down the voltage from 24V to 12V so to use it in a 12V system just bypass the resistor. Not that it does you any good now.:cry:

If you are 12V you don't need the resistor.

What I did when I converted my first CUCv to 12v was to connect the power wire to the other end of the resister and it read fine for 12V. The resistor is to drop the voltage down from 24 to 12 but my 12V was using both Alts making a dual 12v system with one for starting and the other isolated...