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They are pricey. If you are changing them all go for the diamonds with the turbo. If you just need one pm me which one(there are marking on them, sometimes dots, T's diamond, square etc). I have a bunch laying around. Better yet post a good pic.
...You can get clearwater heads...
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I had exactly the problem you described twice and both times it was a nearly frozen front axle joint. Very simple to diagnose. Jack the front axle up on both sides and take the two front tires off. See if the steering is binding. If it is, pop the draglink off the steering arm . Try...
Well, been about a month now and no issues at all with the new Zerostart. It fit in the block perfect as well. Used it for almost 2 weeks 24/7 and now just about 4hrs a day and still functioning as it should.
I have spent the last two hours going through Tm's, google search, site search and maybe I'm retarded but I can't find the info or which TM.
I have looked in Tm9-2320-361-20 chap 20,TM9-2320-209-20-1,TM9-2320-209-34-2-1 chap 10,11,12 and still can't find the actual seal replacement procedure...
It sucks. Use rustoleum v4700 series industrial paint. It is only available through places like Grainger. We use it on the Fire Hydrants at work and it has taken a brutal beating up on the state roads.
I put 5 coats of Por15 on my frame after sandblasting a few years ago and it peeled off in...
It's hard to see in the pics, sorry. The Kats is stamped brass and the Zerostart is a cast machined piece. Much stronger. The element is shorter and much thicker on the Zerostart as well. I also had trouble getting both Cats to sit flush on the block. The Zerostart popped right in with ease.
Well, got the new Zerostart in. I can see a significant difference in Quality. The Kats is cheap thin junk. The Zero start is cast and much stronger and the element looks beefier. It also has Made in USA stamped right on it. The Kats has nothing which would make me question it's origin for sure...
This may sting a bit but the answer is in your first post.."Cheap eBay starters"
Try using a reputable local re builder. Cheap is not good.It usually equates to cheap parts or poor quality work or both.
My CUCV's suck in extreme cold for heat. I have two they both barely put out enough heat to keep you from freezing to death. One has a new brass heater core, both have brand new GM factory tstats.Rads are blocked by cardboard in both. The heater system is a poor design. it draws fresh air from...
You may find this of interest. The aluminum 2 row cools better. I proved it.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/428584-cooling-6-5-copper-vs-aluminum-rads-things-discovered.html
You have a valid point. The main reason I wanna keep the 24v is for the NATO jumper system. I also have the 3/4 impact gun that runs off it. I think I will have to make an isolated alt fit where the a/c went. Now on the factory M1008/9 etc the alts are identical correct ? If I run a CS130 on the...
Yes they were new and working fine. The truck had bad throttle shaft seals and lost prime. I'm not the only one who has experienced this. A few posts over at DP on it. Bottom line, Don't use ether on these engines. It's a really bad idea. The truck was a civvy not MV. 83 K20 6.2. The GPs were...