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Enjoy ripping it all back apart when they blow.
I didn't say you must use ARPs. I said I prefer them.
The factory headgaskets suck. Now your gonna add boost to a headgasket that does not have the proper fire rings. Pulling the lines is nothing and there is no need to have head "checked" if there...
It kills them electrically. I had brand new ones and had an issue with the IP so I shot some in one of mine and it wiped out 6 of them. I have read others having the same issue. I can't tell you why but I know it does because I did it before I knew any better but hey..go ahead...spray...
If you used ether on it your glow plugs are toast.
It is best to plug these in but if the truck is in good order with strong batteries it should start even that cold. But I would look into lighter oil. I have seen the oil pump driveshafts break in this weather with 15w40 on an unheated engine. A...
I have a freeze plug style.I suspect maybe Kats could be made in china junk now. I ordered a Zerostart today from Advance. They are made in Canada...Canadians know cold...lol
No, I have a whole setup minus whatever do for Alt 2.
V belts are a nuisance plus by changing over to Serp I can upgrade to the Humvee water pump which has twice the GPH, The Duramax Fan and Kennedy Clutch which has a special calibration and engages lower.
I could go into a long rant about V...
I hate the v belts on these. I got rid of them on my M1008 and never looked back but that included a 12v conversion, which for that truck was the right thing to do.
What I was studying was the CUCV sticky on the isolated ground theory of operation.
The serp belt setup uses a non isolated cs130...
I did this.
First off, don't waste your time doing this without changing the headgaskets. You'll be 3/4 of the way there anyway with the intake and ex manifolds off. The factory printoseal gaskets are garbage and the 6.5 HG's have better fire rings. I prefer ARP studs but New TTY's are ok. Don't...
Fuel mileage is minimal. The only issue is unnecessary wear on the u joints but what the heck, 2nd Gen Dodges have the same front axles without locking hubs so I would not worry but since your truck is almost 30 yrs old, just make sure the ujoints are in good order particularly the CV joint on...
Where did you buy the new springs and upper bushings ? ORD ?? They sell junk.
The fact that they are longer than your old ones means nothing. Actual tension does. I never had death wobble in mine until I changed the front axle shaft u joints and figured..."I'll do the springs and upper bushings...
NAPA part# for the Zerostart appears to be same but with a TWD infront.
Advance only shows the 3100057 which is the 600w. I am debating which to get. Ordinarily I would have went with the 600w because of the cost of electric but since Connecticut now rivals Siberia with cold temps I am wondering...
These things are junk. I installed one on my M1009 and it burned out within a month. Napa warrantied it but now I only got 1 week from the new one. It was installed properly as I have installed many over the years. The first one I clocked at 6 the second at 12 either of which is acceptable...
AFAIK the advance adapter Bellhousing is for gassers. It will bolt to a 6.2 but I believe the diesel starter will not clear as the nose it bigger.
You don't need to build a new crossmember. Just make a 2 inch spacer for under the tranny mount. See my swap thread.
Looking back, I would have went...